tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14828047003621381642024-03-06T02:47:07.217+05:30MusafirRendezvous with IndiaHari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.comBlogger143125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-88551128775843132762012-10-12T00:06:00.000+05:302012-10-13T12:20:03.718+05:30Buddhism and its Iconography–A Brief Study - 2<p><font color="#666666">As I mentioned in my previous post, during early Buddhism, there was no idol worship as the Buddha himself was against idol worship. With the rise of Mahayana Buddhism in North-Western India, the image of Buddha was introduced into the Buddhist art. This new culture started in Gandhara and Mathura, and defied the Hinayana school and gradually, the image of Buddha adorned all subsequent Buddhist sites.</font></p> <p><font color="#cccccc"><font color="#666666">There is a third sect in Buddhism called the Vajrayana. This sect is only found in Nepal and Tibet today. This sect introduced Tantric culture in the religion. A distinct feature of this sect is the the use of rituals as an alternative to the earlier abstract meditation. The lure towards the Hindu rituals to have control of some external forces probably created this sect. In fact, human psychology and hypnosis was an element of this practice which the Vajrayanas used to have control over other people. However, the tantric culture vanished in time but the sect remained.</font> </font></p> <p><font color="#cccccc"></font></p> <p>                                           How many of us know that Buddha is not a person? Buddha means “The Enlightened” and there are more than one in Buddhism. However, the most popular of the mortal Buddhas is Gautama., who is most widely represented in Indian Buddhist art. He appears in the sanctums of cave temples and also outside, depicted as either meditating or teaching. The Vajrayanas evolved the theory  of the primordial god whom they called Adi Buddha or Vajradhara, popularly worshipped in Nepal and Tibet. He is heavily ornamented and and sits in the attitude of meditation and holds a thunder-bolt in the right hand and a bell in the left. You can find this image at the the <a title="Nyingmapa Monastery" href="http://indiathatwas.com/?p=11">monastery at Kushalnagaar</a> in the Madikere district of Karnataka. The “Lalitha-Vistara”, a Mahayana text makes a mention of fifty-six Buddhas and seven Manushi Buddhas.</p> <p>                                            A Bodhisattva is the one who has become enlightened, acquired the Bodhi knowledge but who refuses to enter Nirvana since he desires to guide all mankind to the true path of the Buddha. The Bodhisattvas as namely Samatabhadra, Vajrapani, Ratnapani, Padmapani and Visvapani. There are many other Bodhisattvas in Mahayana Buddhism. The most popular of these are Avalokiteswara (Padmapani) and Manjusri. They are widely represented in India, Tibet, China and Japan. </p> <p>                                            It is believed that Maithreya is the Future Buddha. He will be born as a Manushi Buddha, 5000 years after the death of Gautama. During the period between the fourth Buddha i.e. Gautama and Maithreya, Avalokiteswara is to rule the world. </p> <p>Now that we have discussed the iconography of Buddhism, we shall discuss about its rock cut architecture and the various constructions in the next post.</p>Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-77104483697131807092012-09-24T08:14:00.000+05:302012-10-13T12:20:03.714+05:30Buddhism and its Iconography–A brief study - 1<p>The 6th Century B.C was a time when men’s minds in several parts of the world were deeply stirred by the problem of religion and salvation. In India, this movement was active in the kingdom of Magadha. The ruling class, considered themselves better than their spiritual guides. Even the Brahmans were arrogant considering themselves superior to others.</p> <p>This rebellion against the Brahmans caused many sects to be born, each advocating different opinions of the nature of God and and relation of God to Man. All of them died in time except two, Jainism and Buddhism. Both at one time pervaded almost every corner of India and enjoyed royal patronage. Buddhism unfortunately died out in India and is now confined to countries like Sri Lanka, Burma, Tibet, China and Japan. Judged by the posthumous effects on the world at large, The Buddha was the greatest man to be born ever in the Indian Sub Continent. </p> <p>The story of Buddha and his life appears only in the later Buddhist scriptures but some of the references are totally unreliable. Certain details are very certain. He was the son of a Sakya chieftain and was named Siddhartha Gautama, became an ascetic at the age of 35 years, became a Buddha (The Enlightened) under a peepal tree, and died at the age of Eighty at Kushinagara. It is believed that he was seriously affected with dysentery after eating a meal of pork, served by a blacksmith. This could be true as it is said that Buddha advised his followers that eating meat is fine as long as the living beings have not been killed to serve the monks. His followers cremated him and his ashes were distributed among the rulers and elders of the local tribes.</p> <p>Now the question comes, when and why sub-sects started in such a simple religion. At the second General Council at Vaisali, a hundred years after Gautama Buddha’s death, there was a big divide on monastic discipline and the Order split into Orthodox “Sthaviravadins” and “Mahasanghika”. These minor points of discipline were soon to follow by doctrinal differences of a very major importance, which in centuries to follow were the cause of a further more divide. </p> <p>The Mahasanghika later was divided into Mahayana (The Great Vehicle) and Hinayana (The lesser one). The Mahayana was considered to be a path for Bodhisatvas to attain Buddhahood. In the early school of Buddhism, there was no idol worship. It was more of a symbol worship; the Bodhi Tree, an empty throne, foot marks which depicted Buddha, lotus flower, the wheel of Dharma etc. which depict various aspects of Siddhartha Gautama’s life. There was a time where the existence of Buddhism was in question. The Mahayana sect which were great in number had to pave way for Idol Worship. The idol worship was started by Acharya Nagarjuna, during the years 167 and 196 A.D when King Yajnasri was ruling the Satavahana Kingdom.</p> <p>With an introduction to Buddhism, we talk more about the scriptures, sects and Buddhist art.</p>Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-4036089097988685742012-09-16T19:50:00.000+05:302012-10-13T12:20:03.711+05:30Trip to Maharashtra–Planning, Execution and ExperienceIt had been 15 years that I visited Maharashtra. The last time, it was a short, quick one with my family for the first time. After visiting Ellora then, I always wanted to return one day and explore it to the fullest. It was not possible until June 2011 when I planned for this trip.<br/><br/>Planning for a 10 day trip was not easy. As always, the amount of reading was very deep and took almost a month. Choosing the places and route was again a challenge, which required a lot of travelling from one place to another. With a perfect itinerary, I started off. All accommodations were booked before.<br/><br/>Those 10 days were unforgettable. I travelled as if I was in air. Quick bites wherever I could find and liquids; Liquids kept me alive with all the marathon travelling, could be tea or water or soft drinks. <a title="The Daulatabad Fort" href="https://hariexploresindia.wordpress.com/2012/07/20/the-daulatabad-forta-dangerous-death-trap/">Daulatabad</a> was the most tiresome of treks, but very interesting understanding the history with a deep sense of psychological aspect of the construction of the Fort.<br/><br/>There were at times when I had to take a break for health reasons, because of which had to skip Sinhgad trek. Most memorable was roaming about Pune Streets, searching for a person whom I have never met and do not even know where he stays. It took 4 long hours of desperation and determination to meet the person, who enlightened me with little known facts which I shall write about in due course of time.<br/><br/>Lastly, a pleasant trip to Bhaja Caves with my wife (my fiancée then), a perfect ending to a straining journey.<br/><br/>It all started when I got down in Aurangabad at 2 AM in the night and started off with my journey. Before knowing about Aurangabad, I want to set the context with a little information on Buddhism and its Iconography in the forthcoming post.Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-34007256722812374622012-09-04T05:37:00.000+05:302012-10-13T12:20:03.710+05:30Malkhed Fort–Gulbarga District - Karnataka<p>It is somehow a surprising fact of Indian History that dynasties which were, at one time the greatest and path breakers have vanished in oblivion just like that. Even the places that had seen those days cease to be recognized. The Fort in Malkhed is one of such places from which the Rashtrakutas ruled.</p> <p>The Rashtrakuta Empire ruled large parts of the Indian Subcontinent between the sixth and tenth Century A.D. However, their history can be traced till the 13th Century. The origin of this dynasty is a controversial topic, however, the Rashtrakutas of Manyakheta (our Malkhed) can be accurately traced by numerous contemporaneous inscriptions referring them. In fact many rulers, claimed to be Rashtrakutas at one point in time and ruled in parallel, parts of India. The crux of the empire extended from the Cauvery River in the South to the south of river Narmada on the North. At their peak, they were the only South Indian empire who conquered regions as far as Kannauj as well as extreme South. How can we forget the largest monolithic temple of the world, the Kailas Temple of Ellora? This was commissioned and built during the reign of Krishna I. Apart from multiple constructions in Ellora, Rashtrakutas contributed to Elephanta Caves and Cave Temples in Padatkal (Karnataka).</p> <p>Malkhed became the capital city of Rashtrakutas during the rule of Amoghava<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03600.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03600" alt="DSC03600" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03600_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="213" /></a>rsha I. This place was also the capital city of the Western Chalukyas till the end of 10th Century. Today, it is a barren land with traces of the brutally demolished glory. I came to know about this fort during my research before travelling and wanted to explore. I hired a vehicle to travel to Malkhed. 40 kilometers of bad roads, one hour of anticipation and a first visual of a huge bastion, I was extremely excited. Walls connect to the bastion and from outside, it looked like a brick structure with a coated layer. But on a close observation, it turned out to be crude sto<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03612.jpg"><img style="margin:3px 0 0 7px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC03612" alt="DSC03612" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03612_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="215" /></a>nes placed one upon the other. </p> <p>The entrance is massive with two large bastions on either side. There is a narrow design on the top of each bastion. Interestingly, this is also made of stone and fitted into the construction. Gaps in the stone structure are visible now and are in a very bad shape with no maintenance. <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03615.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03615" alt="DSC03615" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03615_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="215" /></a>You can find a construction outside the entrance to the right which is recent but built off the stones inside the fort. As I moved inside I passed through one more gateway with smaller bastions on either side. This gateway has a small parapet with similar stone design as we had seen on the bastions of the main entrance. There is a small house inside this<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03618.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC03618" alt="DSC03618" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03618_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="215" /></a> gateway being used by a Muslim family. </p> <p>Once I passed through this house and turn right and walk through first visuals of the buildings appeared. I was astonished to see that they were all totally demolished with not even minimum maintenance. The entire walkway is filled with rubble and <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03620.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 6px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03620" alt="DSC03620" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03620_thumb.jpg" width="215" height="250" /></a>stone. If you keenly observe, you can find walls on either side covered in bushes now. Such is the pathetic situation inside. You will find broken structures here and there. There is no way I could understand what kind of structures they were and what was their significance. I walked almost 300 meters further when I saw <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03622.jpg"><img style="display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC03622" alt="DSC03622" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03622_thumb.jpg" width="275" height="215" /></a>a small domed structure with an entrance at a distance. There is a flight of steps to reach this structure. The top of the entrance, made of brick and mortar is broken in the middle and can collapse any day. The entrance apparently was well decorated with minute carvings but none of it is clear. </p> <p><a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03624.jpg"><img style="margin:0 7px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03624" alt="DSC03624" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03624_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="215" /></a>Inside is a small domed mantapa with a broken parapet, decorated though. I carefully went inside. As expected, many parts of this structure are broken and lying here and there. There are three arches through which one can enter inside. The building is supported by 8 pillars within and three internal arches of the same style. The dome is decorated with an octagonal design. Finding that I do not have anything to see inside this mantapa, I proceed further to another small construction in this vicinity. </p> <p>Once I got near the other construction, I understood that it was a Jaina <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03628.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC03628" alt="DSC03628" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03628_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="215" /></a>basadi. We always knew that Rashtrakutas as great patrons of the Jain religion. However, this is the only indication that I found inside the fort. This is a typical basadi with simple design. The posterior part of the basadi, the sanctum was reconstructed in recent times. By the looks it is difficult to identify the idol inside, but by the simplicity I am assuming it to be <em>Adinatha</em> or <em>Shantinatha</em> who were the foremost <em>Tirthankaras</em>. Also, the later <em>Tirthankaras</em> had typical identifiers which are not present in this one.</p> <p><a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03636.jpg"><img style="margin:0 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03636" alt="DSC03636" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/dsc03636_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="215" /></a>There is a further road to the side of this basadi and I walked. It was a short but tiresome walk uphill. Further down, I came across a domed building again which I could not understand its importance. Considering the pitiable condition in which this place is, it is high time the authorities strive to do a face lift of the entire place and who knows, there might be unknowns waiting to be explored.</p> <p>When Amoghavarsha started ruling from Malkhed, he was already old and became a follower of the Digambara sect of Jainism. This could be a reason why the defenses of this fort look very weak. Even though the rulers were peace lovers, they frequently ventured into provoked battles and continued their legacy for the next 250 years without being defeated.</p> <p>Manyakheta was plundered sometime after 1050 A.D and the dynasty was taken over the Chalukyas of Kalyani. </p>Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-80669576668906983342012-07-20T16:25:00.000+05:302012-10-13T12:20:03.716+05:30The Daulatabad Fort–A Dangerous Death Trap<p><a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04533.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 5px 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04533" alt="DSC04533" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04533_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="190" /></a>Why were forts built? Was it for showing prominence? If it was only for a residence, is it necessary for the fort being such massive? Or was it just out of fear of death?</p> <p>All these thoughts came to my mind as I stood outside the Daulatabad Fort, waitin<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04538.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC04538" alt="DSC04538" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04538_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="187" /></a>g for orders to march in. I waited years for this moment, and our army well prepared. In the midst of all, is my friend Tukaram. I asked him “Brother… You must be mad.. You know that you are blind… ” He simply answered “Anything for my motherland… ”. This shut me immediately. I took his left hand and said “Ok.. I am with you.. I heard a lot about the dangers inside.. Don’t leave me.. I will shout ‘kill’ and you can slash your sword.. We will win….”. </p> <p>I must say that the kings have chosen a nice place for this fort. Hills on three sides and a river on the fourth. Tukaram asked “Hari, I heard Rashtrakutas are Jains. How come they are interested in war and killing?”. “I donno. We need to find out.” said I.</p> <p><a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04540.jpg"><img style="margin:0 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04540" alt="DSC04540" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04540_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="187" /></a>Attack…</p> <p>This call shook me and Tukaram.. “C’mon brother, it’s do or die now”. We started running towards the narrow passage to the main entrance. We have an obstruction brother, the enemy has placed two wooden planks at the narrow passage which hit our front runners. Fortunately, our elephants managed to break but it took their ene<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04547.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC04547" alt="DSC04547" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04547_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>rgy”</p> <p>“Where is the entrance? I see only the fort wall… What a clever construction!.. The entrance is to the left invisible from the outside.. This is a deliberate attempt to confuse us”.</p> <p>“Our army is making a clever move to place camels in front of elephants to push and break open the door. Iron Spikes are placed to hurt the elephants” I said. “There is artillery placed in the holes above the door.. We need to save ourselves…<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04551.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04551" alt="DSC04551" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04551_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>Also, there is a bastion inside the second wall from which arrows are shot. We are losing our people…” And we marched through the <em>Amberkot</em>, the outer wall of the fort. </p> <p>“It is not over.. There are wooden planks immediately after entering the door. There are square holes cut in the walls from which the planks are pushed. The first hit our elephants..And the second hit our horses..” “Brothers, put yourself”, I thought. But where is <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04552.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC04552" alt="DSC04552" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04552_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>the chance? There is a bastion right in front from which a volley of arrows have come and killed half of the soldiers passing.. “Why are our people screaming?” asked Tukaram in a trembling voice. “Another clever act. There is a square ventilator in the dome from which the enemies are pouring boiling oil” said I. </p> <p>“Brother! I am scared…”. This expression cleared my doubt..This fort was constructed in such a way that the attacker gets psychologically weakened even before the actual battle starts. We then entered the Mahakot, the <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04685.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04685" alt="DSC04685" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04685_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>second line of defense. “Tukaram! This fort is simple un penetrable. There are four lines of enclosure walls with small and big bastions. Enemies are on all of them and throwing spears and arrows towards us. We need to move fast”. Saying this, I took his hand and started running. Out of nowhere, from the enclosures in the sides, came soldiers<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04689.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC04689" alt="DSC04689" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04689_thumb.jpg" width="241" height="346" /></a> and behind them cannons blasted boom..boom.. We narrowly escaped and ran forward. </p> <p>“Looks like there is a side door.. Let’s go from there”, said I and started running behind others who opened the wooden door. “Tukaram! So many tricks. This side door opens into a deep wet moat.. Some of our people already fell into it and are perished. Poor folks.. eaten by alligators and crocodiles hungry and waiting. Our general says that he has information of 52 fake gates like this inside the fort, and 33 of them between the second and third gates. We need to be careful”. I understood that why so many of us have been called for this war. This fort need numbers to conquer. It is not easy.</p> <p><a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04683.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04683" alt="DSC04683" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04683_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>The space after the second door is empty. Have the protectors withdrawn? My doubts vanished when I saw a guard peeping through a small hole in the wall in front. “There are good sculptures of <em>Mahishasura Mardhini</em> and <em>Parvathi</em> on the pillars of a pavilion at this small arch. Looks likes these are remains of a Shiva Temple”, I explained.  We had to walk slowly pushing each othe<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/daultabadmap.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="daultabadmap" alt="daultabadmap" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/daultabadmap_thumb.jpg" width="253" height="350" /></a>r as the way to the next arch is a bottleneck.  “This is again a clever tactic to keep a control on the our pace”, I thought and have to admit that am amazed. There are other tricks as well. Usually, elephants are depicted to show way. Here elephants are carved in such a way to confuse an outsider so as to reach the wet moat, however, an insider can easily understand the way. This is again to psychologically bring down the morale.</p> <p>From this arch, the third and the fourth gates are visible. “Brother, this is going to be a long walk for us. Be prepared” said I. The distance from the second to the third seemed to be almost a mile. “There should have been a Shiva Temple <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04674.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04674" alt="DSC04674" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04674_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>here once upon a time and I heard its name is Deepmalika”. The floor started getting uneven for us to walk briskly. “Tukaram! I see the farthest point of the fort from here. They can keep an eye on everything from there”, I said and moved forward. The Nandi Mantapa has been reconstructed as a mausoleum now. There are some stable type constructions. As expected, there <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04652.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC04652" alt="DSC04652" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04652_thumb.jpg" width="241" height="351" /></a>were soldiers inside and we brutally killed them. Me and Tukaram slashed a couple. “I can see a minaret from here. Seems it is the Chand Minar, the second highest in India after the Qutub Minar in Delhi”, I described to Tukaram. We passed beside the Chand Minar towards the next gate. I noticed one thing. Along with psychologically getting weakened, with this long stretch we are also physically gettin<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04661.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04661" alt="DSC04661" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04661_thumb.jpg" width="241" height="350" /></a>g exhausted. This, I believe is an important factor that was taken into consideration while building the fort. An interesting feature of the fort is that the walls are different in height alternatively. This is again to confuse the enemies about what is the route inside. Also, stone boulders are rolled from ahead somewhere. Our people have to skip those which will again disintegrate them a little hurting them physically and the confusion creates psychological impact.</p> <p>We finally see the third gate from the Minar and our arm<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04651.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC04651" alt="DSC04651" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04651_thumb.jpg" width="241" height="350" /></a>y is already frustrated with the tedious stretch. Even Tukaram was panting. Somehow, we reached the Kalkot. There are two gates now, to the left and right. “Tukaram! Our people started breaking the larger gate, which I am assuming leads further as the palace is also in the same direction. The right is a smaller one and could be a fake”. We bought down the huge gate. And what do we see? There is a wall behind. This is the fake gate. I see that the enemy has been successful to some extent taking the breath away from our folks. From this on, it was climbing stairs all along. Again there were enclosures from which soldiers were coming out in huge <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04635.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04635" alt="DSC04635" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04635_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>numbers. We passed the Chini Mahal where rulers like Shambhaji and Abu Hassan Tanashah were imprisoned. </p> <p>“Brother! Will the effort that we are putting in, we must win!” said Tukaram. I looked at him and smiled at his stubborn expression. We had to put all our strength to run to the place where is a bridge. We stopped. I saw enemies on the other side. Our people started <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04629.jpg"><img style="display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC04629" alt="DSC04629" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04629_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>walking and suddenly screaming and dropped dead on the bridge. I realized that the bridge was made or iron and heated to extreme temperature such that no man can survive. We finally had to sadly step on dead bodies and reach the other side. We bought snakes with us which we put on the walls. I saw that the walls are so smooth that snakes cannot crawl.</p> <p>“Tukaram! I am going to be blind as you now”. I said this words when I saw <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04620.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC04620" alt="DSC04620" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04620_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>that a dark passage is the only way to the citadel. We took torches and moved inside. Our poor soldiers, if seen light went towards it and fell hundreds of feet in the moat. Also the passage has been constructed in such a way that I could not assume the way. Walls hit me to the left and right. Tukaram was trembling. </p> <p>Finally, we were left with the treacherous climb t<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04582.jpg"><img style="display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC04582" alt="DSC04582" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc04582_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="241" /></a>o the citadel. Hundreds of people from both sides perished. The King was almost defeated and waiting for a final fight. On the way, there is a Ganesha Temple which was constructed during the rule of Shivaji. I prayed for Tukaram and his determination. Finally, we reached the citadel and the King surrendered.</p> <p>With the happiness of victory, we hugged and cried.</p> <p><b><i>This post has been published by me as a part of IBL; the Battle of Blogs, sponsored by WriteupCafe.com. Join us at our official website and facebook page.</i></b></p> <p><b><i><a href="http://www.indianbloggersleague.com/">www.indianbloggersleague.com</a> <br /><a href="http://www.facebook.com/IndianBloggersLeague">www.facebook.com/IndianBloggersLeague</a></i></b></p>Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-70060495598480817902012-06-20T05:23:00.000+05:302012-10-13T12:20:03.713+05:30Bahmanis–Where are they today?<p>It has been a great experience writing about Bidar, which I think am the only person in recent times to have written extensively. Even though tracing down the Bahmani kingdom through its inception in <a title="Gulbarga" href="https://hariexploresindia.wordpress.com/2011/11/14/the-town-of-gulbarga-a-first-view/">Gulbarga</a> to its final days in Bidar was tedious, I feel extremely happy and honored to introduce the last living descendants.</p> <p><a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03155.jpg"><img style="margin:0 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03155" alt="DSC03155" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03155_thumb.jpg" width="200" height="350" /></a>As you visit the <a title="The Bahmani Tombs at Ashtur - Part 1" href="https://hariexploresindia.wordpress.com/2011/12/31/the-bahmani-tombs-ashtur-part-1/">Tomb of Ahmed Shah Wali Bahmani</a>, you will find a simple looking man sitting guard inside. There is no such arrangement for the others. They are either locked or left open. I started talking to the person about the time and ages of the construction and I was taken aback. However, the pitiable conditions under which he is living, but he is still “His Royal Highness, Sultan Khaleel Shah Bahmani”, of the 12th generation. </p> <p>I was awestruck knowing this. I am face to face with a descendent of one of the most famous dynasties of the Deccan. I started talking to him more and he offered to take me to his house. Behind the tombs is a narrow muddy road which leads to a <a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03185.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC03185" alt="DSC03185" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03185_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="196" /></a>small village. Looking at his home, I wondered what Ahmed Shah Wali could have thought seeing the member of his family staying at such a pitiable place. It is a small four room brick building with tiled roof. </p> <p>“Everything has gone away with time” he sadly noted. The house he is living was given by the government after his family was evicted from the tomb premises. His family consists of his wife, four daughters and a son. In all these years he gathered information about his ancestors and can recognize them through paintings. He has also preserved a few coins minted by his ancestor<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03186.jpg"><img style="margin:0 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03186" alt="DSC03186" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03186_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="200" /></a>s. He has a good collection of armory like swords and daggers. He is not the only one of the dynasty. His brothers visit the place some times and they too are in the same economically backward condition, he said. He had refused to return the armory and coins to ASI fearing that his identity with the dynasty will be lost forever. <br /></p> <p>With the Bahmani dynasty introduced, I bid good bye to the land of Bidar and move on.</p>Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-44365024453251665882012-06-18T05:25:00.000+05:302012-10-13T12:20:03.712+05:30Takth Mahal or The Throne Palace–Bidar Fort<p>The name Takth Mahal is modern, for it is not mentioned in contemporary history, although the magnificence of the royal palace built by Ahmed-Shah-Wali at Bidar is extolled by Sayyid Ali Tabataba in his work entitled, <em>Burhan-i-Maathir. </em>The author mentions a palace and a forecourt but does not mention the name of the palace. It may be interesting to quote that this book gives certain features of the building, such as its arches and towers, and its blue tiles. The name Takth Mahal was apparently given by the literati of Bidar who had read accounts of Ferishta, who did not find a more appropriate edifice among the ruins of the Bahmani buildings which could be associated with the throne. The <a title="Diwani-i-Am or The Public Audience Hall" href="https://hariexploresindia.wordpress.com/2012/06/17/the-diwani-i-am-or-the-public-audience-hallbidar-fort/">audience hall</a> where the throne was actually placed did not meet the descriptions written by the above mentioned writers. The plan of the so-called Takth Mahal, however, agrees to them, and should not be confused with the Public Audience hall. </p> <p>I cannot write much about this place owing to the fact that I am doubtful about the authenticity of the photographs I had taken. I am not sure if they belong to the Takth Mahal. However, I will end with a description of the throne. This throne was gifted to Sultan Tughlak Shah by Telinga (Andhra Kings) ambassadors as part of a peace treaty. Ferishta quotes eye witnesses that the throne was nine feet long and three feet broad. It was made of ebony covered with plates of pure gold, and set with precious stones of immense value. The throne had the flexibility of jewels being added and replaced. It became a custom that every prince had put their own mark of jewelry on the throne. During the reign of Sultan Muhammad Shah, it was valued at three and a half crores of rupees. This splendid throne was called the <em>Firozah, </em>owing, as Ferishta says, to it being partly enameled of a sky blue color was which in time was entirely concealed by the number of jewels. </p> <p>This throne was was originally setup in the Durbar hall of Gulbarga was later moved to Bidar and put in the audience hall. </p> <p>We have come to the end of our marvelous and memorable journey across the Bahmani Kingdom. I will end this series with an interesting account of a meeting… Watch out….</p>Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-81451279627369431022012-06-17T09:40:00.000+05:302012-10-13T12:20:03.717+05:30The Diwani-i-Am or The Public Audience Hall–Bidar Fort<p>This is by far the most difficult post to write as it took one long month for me to gather information. The place is in ruins and it is very difficult to identify easily. However, referring to my pictures and the content that I studied, we could relate. This building was also called the <em>Jali Mahal</em> on account of some screens of trellis work which were visible in the early 19th century. Unfortunately, you cannot find trace of them today. The Archeological Department of Hyderabad conducted extensive excavations then and it has disclosed not only the plan of the building but also the architectural and decorative features. Most of the decorative stuff has been removed and stored in museums.  </p> <p><a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03285.jpg"><img style="margin:0 5px 0 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03285" alt="DSC03285" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03285_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="200" /></a>This building is situated to the west of the Zanana enclosure and is approached by a road which proceeds from the former. The outer wall of the <em>Diwani-i-Am</em> is preserved up to a considerable height on the southern side but it raises only to a few feet on the other three sides. It has two entrances to east and west but they do not face each other. The earlier excavations have exposed the original pavement of the eastern entrance, but the masonry of its outer and inner gateways, which must have comprised large blocks of carved stones, has all disappeared. </p> <p>Passing through the entrance, we approach the court of the building which measures 166x133 feet in dimensions. The l<a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03286.jpg"><img style="margin:5px 0 0 5px;display:inline;float:right;" title="DSC03286" alt="DSC03286" align="right" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03286_thumb.jpg" width="353" height="200" /></a>atter is divided into two parts. The principal hall of the building, which was probably used for public audiences is on the southern side and is approached by five steps from the pavement. The hall is divided into three apartments by rows of pillars, six in each row. The total length of the hall is 109 feet. These pillars of the hall were probably of wood, and they have all perished. The stone pedestals on which the wooden shafts rested are, however intact. The walls of the hall were originally decorated with panels of tile-work, some of them which have survived and currently being restored in museums. The colors of these tiles faded, for the tiles have reminded buried in debris for a number of years. It is said that two of these tiles were moved to a mosque in Bidar initially and later to a museum in Britain.</p> <p><a href="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03319.jpg"><img style="margin:0 5px 5px 0;display:inline;float:left;" title="DSC03319" alt="DSC03319" align="left" src="http://hariexploresindia.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dsc03319_thumb.jpg" width="350" height="200" /></a>One of the panels had a calligraphic text in the form of <em>Swastika </em>containing the name of “<em>Ali</em>”, the son in law of Prophet Mohammed, repeated four times in the <em>Kufic</em> script. These tiles were probably made by Persian craftsmen, for artists and technicians of the latter country were much patronized by the Bahmanis. The ceiling of the hall may again have been of wood. In the hall was placed the <em>Takth-i-Firoza, </em>Turquoise throne. At the back of the hall remains of a room may be noticed, the middle one may have been for the King. The floor had mosaic design comprising geometrical patterns such as hexagons and stars. There are two more rooms behind the King’s chamber, probably belonging to the ministers. The remains of walls in the south indicate an upper storey which had an arched screen built along its sides. </p> <p>We now visit the Takth Mahal or the Royal Palace.</p>Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-31005298141391384482012-05-13T21:42:00.001+05:302012-05-13T21:42:59.980+05:30The Gagan Mahal–Bidar Fort<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/05/gagan-mahalbidar-fort.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>As I mentioned in the previous post, Gagan Mahal was a name commonly given. In fact, there are buildings with the same name in <a title="Anegondi - Capital City of Vijayanagara Kingdom" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2010/01/anegondi-capital-of-vijayanagara.html">Anegondi (Hampi)</a>, Bijapur, Mudgal as well. Aptly named the Heavenly Palace, it was originally built by the Bahmanis and later altered by the Baridi rulers, notably the northern wing and the upper apartments of the southern wing. This monument is also out of reach to visitors and the information given is provided by eye witnesses when it was open to public.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AOWV1yQSi6E/T6_ddjKGElI/AAAAAAAAYZg/hbk_M3snU_s/s1600-h/DSC032783.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03278" border="0" alt="DSC03278" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VWe-PJ8uzOQ/T6_deu_uccI/AAAAAAAAYZo/CJz1jIn4Akw/DSC03278_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The palace has two courts, the outer apparently used by the male staff and the guards. Its entrance is behind the <a title="The Solah Khamb Mosque - Bidar Fort" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/05/zanani-masjid-or-solah-khamb-mosque.html">Solah Khamb mosque</a>. On the southern side of the court is a series of rooms and halls build in rows one behind the other.  Is is said that one the inside, there are arched entrances to all these rooms which were decorated with stucco and tile work.</p> <p>There were arcades on either side of the long inner court, the remains of <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wj1uXOvBAG4/T6_df6xyPfI/AAAAAAAAYZw/JgyjqjZudqA/s1600-h/DSC03271%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03271" border="0" alt="DSC03271" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-tDZRjT_bpL4/T6_dhiEiC5I/AAAAAAAAYZ4/EkqyBJx3loE/DSC03271_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>which may be seen today. The arcades to the north have been merged to the basement of the <a title="The Tarkash Mahal - Bidar Fort" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/05/tarkash-mahal-bidar-fort.html">Tarkash Mahal</a> which was built at a later date than the Gagan Mahal. The eastern and western parts have openings into the court which is said to have shown a nice proportion. In the ground floor, is an open space in the form of a pavement. There is a doorway through the pavement which leads to a double hall divided into six bays. At the back of this double hall is a narrow pavement with recessed windows opening on the moat which is all around the fort. </p> <p>As a residential complex, the Gagan Mahal was aptly designed and decorated for a King with the queens <em>harem</em>. There is a terrace going up which commands a good view of the neighboring buildings. This terrace is also currently blocked. </p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-68987190791451575902012-05-08T23:50:00.001+05:302012-05-08T23:51:46.843+05:30The Tarkash Mahal –Bidar Fort<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/05/tarkash-mahal-bidar-fort.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>The name Tarkash probably is given because the monument was built for the Turkish wife of the king, but a general conventionality is observed in giving names to the royal buildings. The names Tarkash Mahal and Gagan Mahal are mentioned in records of kingdoms like Bijapur and Golkonda as well. The rulers of the contemporary dynasties vied with one another in the glory of the architectural works and chose to have the same names for their palaces. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EphPX2WbYQo/T6lj0rBecUI/AAAAAAAAYX0/hiHzdoT9f2k/s1600-h/DSC032643.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03264" border="0" alt="DSC03264" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-sH4pUbgT3Z8/T6lj1m-tKqI/AAAAAAAAYX8/ee1swmFxOwY/DSC03264_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The <strong>Tarkash Mahal</strong> at Bidar may have originally built by the Bahmanis but the upper parts are definitely built during the Baridi rule (the decorative emblem of the Baridi Kingdom is to be seen in the upper levels of the building). As on today, there is no access to the inner parts of the building owing to the pitiable conditions of the ruins but I shall talk about how it was earlier. The uppermost apartments are reached by a flight of steps which also lead to the roof of of the <a title="Solah Khamb Mosque" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/05/zanani-masjid-or-solah-khamb-mosque.html">Solah Khamb Mosque</a>. The roof of these apartments has fallen down but the walls are more or less intact which give a general idea of the plan of the building. In the middle is a hall with arched openings and was beautifully decorated with tiles and stucco work. The roof of the hall has fallen and originally there was another apartment above it, the remains of which in the shape <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9OhFSzN-ct4/T6lj3axj53I/AAAAAAAAYYE/W42UL_j20zQ/s1600-h/DSC03265%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03265" border="0" alt="DSC03265" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OJm3XwRC09E/T6lj4vilFhI/AAAAAAAAYYM/0sTXtK1mfSc/DSC03265_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>of two arches can still be see as you see in the above picture. They too also decorated with stucco work.</p> <p>There are smaller rooms on either side of the middle hall which was once decorated with encaustic tiles of which, we can still find some traces. The middle level rooms were earlier occupied by the court of the local officer. There are traces of an old parapet on the second level which suggests that the third level was built at a later time. On the ground level, the rooms were once used as storage for sundry articles and sometimes of ammunition. In fact, rockets were found in the early nineteenth century. This building has numerous halls like these.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ZXlxi20eB2o/T6lj6M6cr9I/AAAAAAAAYYU/fLYYq-Rt0fQ/s1600-h/DSC03375%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03375" border="0" alt="DSC03375" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tQcnbMH8LWo/T6lj7UVI1ZI/AAAAAAAAYYc/XGQV5vQv_qc/DSC03375_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>There is another building to the east of this which is also called the Tarkash Mahal, but it is in a very ruined condition. From the present remains, it can be made out that it had two storeys and that the upper level may have been occupied by the royal ladies. The architecture is clearly of the Baridi dynasty and so it can be assumed that this building is kind of an extension of the other Tarkash Mahal we had seen earlier. </p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-89998958604852348252012-05-06T18:44:00.001+05:302012-05-06T18:45:02.348+05:30The Zanani Masjid or the Solah Khamb Mosque<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/05/zanani-masjid-or-solah-khamb-mosque.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>Both these names have been given in comparatively recent times, as this building is situated in the Zanana enclosure and as it has sixteen columns in the middle part of the prayer hall, which was screen<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NDA2JmgH9Qk/T6Z5MYOgZ6I/AAAAAAAAYVw/23W9UavRYdM/s1600-h/DSC032633.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03263" border="0" alt="DSC03263" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ERIYaonQsmY/T6Z5NaVJpcI/AAAAAAAAYV0/ad5xo2QDY74/DSC03263_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>ed off from the rest of the building when it fell into ruins. Its original name was <em>Masjid-i-Jami</em>, and the Friday Prayers and State functions where held here. It was built in the 1423 AD by the Sultan Mohammed Shah, the son of the first Bahmani ruler Ahmed Shah Wali.  The year is recorded in an inscription that was found when the ASI was clearing the debris. The mosque can definitely be considered the earliest Muslim building in the city of Bidar. </p> <p>Even though the length of the building is around 310 feet from north to south, it looks flat and <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-MFVy0QNxxwY/T6Z5Ohv8ClI/AAAAAAAAYV8/beqWc6phC2s/s1600-h/DSC032763.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03276" border="0" alt="DSC03276" align="right" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-4SL3wykNi-A/T6Z5Pw5QE0I/AAAAAAAAYWE/nUMt4BIoJqg/DSC03276_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>monotonous owing to its short height. There is a beautiful parapet above the arches but the effect is completely lost when seen from near. The pillars on the outside are square and the internal are round. The row of columns inside divide the prayer hall into 95 bays. Nine middle bays is occupied by a hall which is crowned by a majestic dome. </p> <p>Access to the inside of the mosque is unavailable with iron doors been fitted at the arches. However, it is said that on the inside is an arrangement of a series of arched windows which are filled <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-boRyQU3cnN8/T6Z5QxQZy9I/AAAAAAAAYWQ/UEl1dTHtnTk/s1600-h/DSC032673.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03267" border="0" alt="DSC03267" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bPj2VnidCvU/T6Z5RzaIX_I/AAAAAAAAYWY/3fpOvek8zE0/DSC03267_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>with tracery. It, like the painted glass windows in cathedrals adds to the interior beauty of the prayer hall. To the western wall, is a pentagonal niche, entered by a hall of fine proportions. The niche points in the direction of the <em>Kaba</em> .The niche, technically called the <em>mihrab, </em>also marks the place of the Imam who conducts the prayers. The roof of the remaining part of the prayer hall comprises a series of smaller domes which are visible at the top but concealed from view by the parapet. The inside of the mosque is dark owing to the other two big buildings in the same vicinity which <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-n7Evr9BB6ns/T6Z5TX5nDhI/AAAAAAAAYWg/XxlzSJrBW3I/s1600-h/DSC032753.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03275" border="0" alt="DSC03275" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LTktXQdxXMY/T6Z5UVgQgGI/AAAAAAAAYWo/3is-TrdtQaE/DSC03275_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>were constructed later. We will talk about these in the further posts. It is said that there is a water reservoir on the roof of the mosque from which water flowed to the cisterns in the ground floor.</p> <p>The mosque has been repaired very well in recent years as earlier it was mostly rubble with cracks on the ceiling and floor. The building although one of the largest in India, suffers by comparison with its contemporary in Mandu or its <a title="The Jumma Masjid - Gulbarga" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/11/jumma-masjid-also-known-as-great-mosque.html">predecessor at Gulbarga</a>. The only pleasing feature is the middle hall crowned by the large dome. </p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-4576600981744946012012-04-29T21:33:00.001+05:302012-04-29T21:33:51.555+05:30Shahi Hammam–The Royal Bath<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/04/shahi-hammamthe-royal-bath.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>The road near the north eastern corner of the Shahi Matbakh enters through an arch in the enclosure of the Royal Bathing place. The building was used as the Civil Court till early nineteenth century, but again with the efforts  by Ghulam Yazdani was handed over to the ASI. <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-QI9I-Amzdk8/T51mXGD5B9I/AAAAAAAAYEo/3vkvkKd9lzQ/s1600-h/DSC03503%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03503" border="0" alt="DSC03503" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EvKCHK1pM3Y/T51mYKKoR0I/AAAAAAAAYEw/Hq2WenbDEHA/DSC03503_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The round pillars that you see are added during the occupation by the Civil Court. </p> <p>Behind the corridor is a double hall with 5 bays in each half. The divisions are arranged by arches, which again is a typical feature of the Bahmani constructions. The middle part of the building was apparently used as a waiting hall. The intermediate hall is the dressing place which consists of three apartments. The original roof fell down in late eighteenth century and was reconstructed. Beyond this was a single domed chamber. The dadoes of this chamber is said to have once adorned with tiles, but now only the stone margins indicating the outlines of the tiles are to be seen. </p> <p>It is said that the plan of the innermost hall consists of a middle apartment which is broad enough to for accommodations of the bathing assistants, who filled the cold and hot tanks continuously. There are other retiring rooms which were also used for other social purposes. The ceiling of these rooms was vaulted, being divided into compartments. The exterior of the building is conspicuous, perhaps owing to the alterations done. On the roof was originally a parapet representing overlapping arches. As this design is generally of the Baridi style, it can be assumed that the Hammam was constructed either in the later Bahmani or the Baridi time. Portions of this parapet still exist in some places.</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-42061723021764450642012-04-28T11:31:00.001+05:302012-04-28T11:32:03.008+05:30The Shahi Matbakh or the Royal Kitchen–Bidar Fort<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/04/shahi-matbakh-or-royal-kitchenbidar.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>This building adjoins the Rangin Mahal and is a few steps away from the banyan tree we talked about in one of the pr<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-mve_is-Gt_k/T5uHnX7R7dI/AAAAAAAAYDc/taoz1gZBIcU/s1600-h/DSC03359%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03359" border="0" alt="DSC03359" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/--xfDSoTg7ts/T5uHpGWsIEI/AAAAAAAAYDk/YZ8c9Xfycbo/DSC03359_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>evious posts. The building at one time may have been used for the royal kitchen, but it is too large for having built for that purpose, and from its plan it would appear to have been the residence of a prince or of some dignitary. There is an inscription to this effect in the inner entrance which says that a Bijapur general stayed here. There is another inscription which records the conquest of Ibrahim Adil Shah in 1619 AD. During the early 19th century, it was used as the District Jail but with the efforts of Ghulam Yazdani, it was handed over to the Archeological Survey of India. <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-D_HGN5HqTc4/T5uHrQN5T6I/AAAAAAAAYDs/QRCjqrOituU/s1600-h/DSC03360%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03360" border="0" alt="DSC03360" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-D2eXH2hGcCQ/T5uHtC7FRMI/AAAAAAAAYD0/yMrOIDzIito/DSC03360_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a></p> <p>The building is entered by an arched gateway which leads to an open court. A modern colonnade with semi circular arches runs on three sides of this court. The south wing has an inner gateway and seven rooms with double apartments. On passing through the inner gateway a court is reached which has a spacious platform at the southern end. There is a small cistern in the middle of the platform, indicating the prese<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eyUnPJNhG7o/T5uHwWwsUCI/AAAAAAAAYD8/Y9XJHFsdS-s/s1600-h/DSC03366%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03366" border="0" alt="DSC03366" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-AYHUy1ogaoY/T5uHxlJ1neI/AAAAAAAAYEE/MKUUUbnEVKc/DSC03366_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>nce of fountains and water channels once. The main building of the palace faces north and comprises a series of rooms and chambers which now have been replaced with some modern constructions probably done during the time it was used as a jail. </p> <p>The domical halls are spacious and star shaped on the inside. There are squinches in the corners which make the plan of the hall look octagonal above the arches. It is probable that this palace was originally buil<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qeo3JjJ6Qfk/T5uHzwYAqcI/AAAAAAAAYEM/SIXj-CcqvHQ/s1600-h/DSC03365%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03365" border="0" alt="DSC03365" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-JfnOC94L_zM/T5uH1VN-q_I/AAAAAAAAYEU/oeZyQqD5_88/DSC03365_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>t by the Bahmani rulers. It is said that there are traces of some other rooms and in the upper stories but its out of reach now. Behind the western enclosure wall of the palace, is a large well which is approached by a ramp on the left side of the road. The masonry work of the well has been raised to a great height, so the water when drawn to that level might flow into the cistern and water fountains in the upper storey of the palace.</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-9257244450891908802012-04-26T22:06:00.001+05:302012-04-26T22:08:00.000+05:30The Rangin Mahal, Bidar Fort–Part 2<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/04/rangin-mahal-bidar-fortpart-2.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>Continued from the previous post…</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QtPFtmtyp-s/T5l5eqJwMKI/AAAAAAAAYCg/iKVFrR86FgA/s1600-h/DSC03516%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03516" border="0" alt="DSC03516" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DD_bBoDSsq4/T5l5gKLKKJI/AAAAAAAAYCo/V0YtK8ZMre0/DSC03516_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="199" height="352" /></a>The royal pavilion is also of small dimensions, the main room square and plain. It has windows on the east and west and a pentagonal projection towards the south. There are also projections in the corners which give a look of a star shaped m<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-yib8PWIrw5Q/T5l5jRzIOuI/AAAAAAAAYCw/H1X9AZlSE7c/s1600-h/DSC03519%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03519" border="0" alt="DSC03519" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-etx_SUICouU/T5l5k38LxvI/AAAAAAAAYC4/ciln87YY26M/DSC03519_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>edieval Deccan temple. The beauty of the room lies in its rich decorations and mother-of-pearl work and tile mosaics. The former is fairly intact in the entrance arch, which is built of basalt of a very dark variety. The floral patterns and calligraphic texts have been depicted by inlaying mother-of-pearl of the finest quality. The effect is lovely and is further enhanced by the architect’s choice of the verses which he has inserted in the decorative scheme.  </p> <p>The pavilion once had a fountain in the middle, the basin on which is now lying in the outer court of the palace between the two flights of steps referred to in the previous post. Like the Mughal kings, the Baridis were also fond of fountains and it can be noticed in laying of waterworks in many of their buildings. </p> <p>The R<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Xr7YdD9ARCg/T5l5nPM8lmI/AAAAAAAAYDA/U5diaAC0ylY/s1600-h/DSC03508%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03508" border="0" alt="DSC03508" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mpVUqO5tBs4/T5l5phlQn_I/AAAAAAAAYDI/6vB-VJIqJWI/DSC03508_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>angin Mahal, however beautiful its wood carving and fascinating are its tiles and mother-of-peal work, suffers by the smallness of its dimensions and shows a lack of vision on the part of the builders. But the plan of the structure is so much altered at various periods, that it is difficult to visualize in its original form or to appraise correctly its beauty or defects. </p> <p>In the basement of the Rangin Mahal there is a series of rooms, which were apparently occupied by guards and the menial servants of the palace. The ceilings of these rooms are vaulted, being massively built with a view to supporting the weight of the royal apartments above. </p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-73716862708084368062012-03-11T17:46:00.001+05:302012-03-11T17:46:16.894+05:30The Rangin Mahal, Bidar Fort–Part 1<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/03/rangin-mahal-bidar-fortpart-1.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>Rangin Mahal literally means “The Colored Palace”, and this name was apparently given to it on account of its walls being originally decorated with tiles of different hues, traces of which still exist.   It was <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PUxolBKfCb4/T1yXM_5Q9II/AAAAAAAAX5k/NlS-ia2ZIe8/s1600-h/DSC035053.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03505" border="0" alt="DSC03505" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-lJCSUrvjelU/T1yXN9KKqsI/AAAAAAAAX5s/wq-3tcG736M/DSC03505_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>originally built by Mahmud Shah Bahmani and some of the apartments were rebuilt by Ali Barid Shah, who adorned them with wood carving and mother of pearl works. In modern times, this has been used by the local administration, and several portions have been built which not only mar the general appearance of the building, but makes it difficult to trace its original plan. Today, it is completely barred from entrance and is opened only for dignitaries. <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-yPS6YYTK0gU/T1yXPjPvC3I/AAAAAAAAX50/5xaRjZ9jhqY/s1600-h/DSC035293.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03529" border="0" alt="DSC03529" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lYFaKUWj5kM/T1yXQ4OxRXI/AAAAAAAAX58/bz3PD8nwJ9g/DSC03529_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a></p> <p>I badly wanted to visit this building right from when I started planning for the trip. I visited the local ASI office which is inside the Fort and asked for permission, which was obviously turned down. My cab driver came to my rescue. We had chosen a time in the morning even before the ASI office opens. There were two ASI workers doing some maintenance work. My driver went over the<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-0Ue8kHFRxRk/T1yXSh0QwPI/AAAAAAAAX6E/kmDnTT1fhQQ/s1600-h/DSC035263.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03526" border="0" alt="DSC03526" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gaaTsmygNww/T1yXTn3R1rI/AAAAAAAAX6M/a9S_6I8Kmjs/DSC03526_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>m and talked in such a way that I was an important visitor and wanted to see the place. They gave up after some persuasion. This incident always make me laugh. There is no detailed information about this building over the internet and i am writing this post after a lot of study and comparing with my pictures.</p> <p>Access to the building is now obtained by two flights of steps which lead to a landing from which, by passing through some rooms, the interior of the palace is reached. One of the rooms opens on a verandah which is modern  but there are t<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jBCbDskvR4E/T1yXVbWPaHI/AAAAAAAAX6U/hZcFIaLZdF8/s1600-h/DSC035303.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03530" border="0" alt="DSC03530" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-S8UVlJ5YTm8/T1yXWjYSPjI/AAAAAAAAX6c/3i40o2Wxx18/DSC03530_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>wo halls at the back which are of the Bahmani period. To the south of this hall, there is another which was originally connected by an opening in the wall. This hall also seems to be from the Bahmani period, and may have been added by Mahmud Shah. </p> <p>From the court, a view of the upper walls may be had. These were once richly adorned with tile work arranged in arch shaped rectangular panels as you see in the picture above. The color scheme <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-mKB1LnInAUw/T1yXYN_gFGI/AAAAAAAAX6k/hEABrxA-HjA/s1600-h/DSC03512%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03512" border="0" alt="DSC03512" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xtp6NP0asDA/T1yXZKDqsBI/AAAAAAAAX6s/VU8asWNryk0/DSC03512_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>now visible consists of white patterns on a dark blue background. They must have contained others colors also, however due to extreme weather conditions, they totally faded. The designs consists of floral and calligraphic texts exhibiting a highly developed technique and refined taste. The court has a water channel with fountains and a cistern in the middle. </p> <p>At the southern end of the court is a hall and pavilion built by Ali Barid. The hall originally had two apartments, each containing five bays. The divisions are arranged by means of columns, which are of wood<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-RLgz1zOgdes/T1yXbbvFk2I/AAAAAAAAX60/N0ZDIHdUOBA/s1600-h/DSC03513%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03513" border="0" alt="DSC03513" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Wf7V7agOXGQ/T1yXch_gn5I/AAAAAAAAX68/D21UK9ypnN0/DSC03513_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a> and most beautifully carved. The designs are both Hindu and Muslim. An interesting feature is presented by the ornamental arches. The ceiling of this wooden hall is also extremely beautifully carved.  The walls of the hall were originally decorated with tile work which unfortunately has been destroyed in the course of repairs done in the recent times, but specimens of it may be seen in the spandrels of the doorway which leads to the royal pavi<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bxqK6FsABcc/T1yXea2si0I/AAAAAAAAX7E/eY4KV9p8crk/s1600-h/DSC03514%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03514" border="0" alt="DSC03514" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-BJcr7n5K0A4/T1yXf8d-WNI/AAAAAAAAX7M/Us0tXn_obyY/DSC03514_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="199" height="352" /></a>lion. This doorway is built at the back of the hall and consist of two arches, one on the outer side and the other inside, with a passage between them. The outer arch is a little larger in size. This arch has a black stone mouldin<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-f5RTE9-Wyts/T1yXh3PRltI/AAAAAAAAX7U/A3S7CZspduY/s1600-h/DSC03515%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03515" border="0" alt="DSC03515" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TYqjVIDUdBQ/T1yXi3JtpMI/AAAAAAAAX7c/L4g3U3X2jlI/DSC03515_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>g (of rope pattern type) above the imposts, while below are tiny shafts elegantly carved. In the spandrels are lovely floral designs worked out on tiles, and above the doorway is a Persian verse inscribed on the same. The inner arch of the doorway is decorated with mother-of-pearl work, which, inlaid in jet black stone, appears all the more brilliant. Beyond this arch is a square room which served as an antechamber between the royal pavilion and the hall. This room was also once richly decorated with tiles, which are to be seen now only in some places. The designs are floral, with pink, green, blue and yellow colors – all arranged and contrasted most tastefully. The room besides leading to the royal pavilion, has two more rooms attached to it. </p> <p>To be continued…</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-73809373450627429742012-03-03T20:31:00.001+05:302012-03-03T20:32:01.355+05:30Bidar Fort–Moving Further Through the Gateways<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/03/bidar-fortmoving-further-through.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>Once I pass through the <em>naqar khana</em> of the Sharza Darwaza, I see one of the most beautiful sights. An awes<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CtuxeF2N9P8/T1Ix7FDw_OI/AAAAAAAAX4E/Yra6clbCFhQ/s1600-h/DSC03486%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03486" border="0" alt="DSC03486" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-S8T_sJOZ6oc/T1Ix90ikoiI/AAAAAAAAX4M/0QQ-X1ish0U/DSC03486_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>ome view of the fortifications simply awed me to the core. I am sure that anyone would love that sight. Imagine those days when king was moving inside the fort with soldiers guarding the gateways and the sides. On the left stretches the lines of ramparts with bastions in between and having a passage along the basements for the use of garrison firing at, and hurling missiles on the enemy during siege. </p> <p>To the north-west, stands the Gumbad Darwaza, which is a most massive structure, the appearance of which presents a striking contrast <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-drbnbEPUQ_M/T1Ix_r7kRjI/AAAAAAAAX4U/JfxOUYpwlFA/s1600-h/DSC03494%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03494" border="0" alt="DSC03494" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-hkxK2GRkDZs/T1IyBlFg6ZI/AAAAAAAAX4c/3nMYsoMRl8c/DSC03494_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>to the somewhat weak and decorative features of the first two gateways. The distance between the Sharza and Gumbad Darwaza is considerable, but they are connected by a broad passage which is well defended on both sides by massive construction. Two to three thousand solders can easily be posted between these two gateways in time of danger.</p> <p>The architecture of the Gumbad Darwaza forms an important landmark in the history of Deccan monuments. Its battering walls, its low arch shaped parapet, its fluted corner turrets (<em>guldastas</em>), and its <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-PLeh58me1YM/T1IyLDDMYxI/AAAAAAAAX4k/Wvm9HW2szAg/s1600-h/DSC03488%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03488" border="0" alt="DSC03488" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Q2O8-3_BOmw/T1IyM4x2_-I/AAAAAAAAX4s/1dLrBJjxn8E/DSC03488_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>hemispherical dome are all reminiscent of the contemporary architecture of Delhi, but the shape of its outer arch with its significant stilt show Persian influence which gradually became more and more prominent in the buildings of Deccan. The span of this arch is 29 feet. With a view to greater security, the entrance through the Darwaza is through a recessed arch of much smaller dimensions than the outer one, and is fitted with doors plated with iron. The walls of the Darwaza rise 45 feet, above which the dome is built. You would not believe when I say that the <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Fluqd_BZxH4/T1IyPRPro7I/AAAAAAAAX40/P-M_vwlUGsM/s1600-h/DSC03495%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03495" border="0" alt="DSC03495" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4Ph4nQ7Rf9Y/T1IyQmOGJgI/AAAAAAAAX48/-buaZKeewHs/DSC03495_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>thickness of the dome is 10 feet. The interior of the gateway has platforms on either side of the passage for the accommodation of the guards.</p> <p>From its style of architecture, the gateway seems to be of the earliest period, and it is not unlikely that it was built by Ahmed Shah Wali when he laid the foundations of the fort in 1429. The bastions adjoining the front seem to be later additions built at different periods. We can clearly understand this as they are architectura<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Z1lAV9-apdY/T1IySwE-C1I/AAAAAAAAX5E/8szq_LekyLY/s1600-h/DSC03243%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03243" border="0" alt="DSC03243" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PVXuygO1itU/T1IyUqhBvKI/AAAAAAAAX5M/9kSjEZYAaII/DSC03243_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>lly not welded into the main body of the gateway, as they cover portions of the original wall and appear as if superimposed. From the entrance of the Gumbad Darwaza, the first object to attract attention is a Banyan tree which is of great antiquity and at one time was of colossal size.  </p> <p>To continue description of the fortifications, it will be best to take the road which goes in a north- easterly direction on entering the fort from the Gumbad Darwaza. First you notice a bastion and a tower, perhaps used as a keep as it command<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2oR4ktRQoDE/T1IyW8XGk2I/AAAAAAAAX5U/6U4fppS_K-E/s1600-h/DSC03531%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03531" border="0" alt="DSC03531" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-11QTWEUTB68/T1IyYAPqBeI/AAAAAAAAX5Y/iBVjl-zodno/DSC03531_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>s a complete view of the city. I have read that the interiors of the tower is beautifully finished with plaster work but today it is barred from entrance. On either side of the tower, there are remains of halls. At a lower level, there are some rooms as shown in this picture with arches heavy in proportion.</p> <p>There are various other fortifications and gun points all across the fort like the Kalmadgi Gate, Kalyani Burj, Delhi Darwaza, Petla Burj, Lal Burj, Kala Burj, Carnatac Darwaza. However, I am not mentioning the details of each as it would be boring for the readers. Each of these gates and bastions are formidable and of utmost importance in the fort.</p> <p>In the next post, we will visit the Rangeen Mahal. I am sure that my next post would interest a lot of people as Rangeen Mahal is completely barred from entrance to public and my post would be an exclusive account.</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-8224154802987253892012-02-28T00:45:00.001+05:302012-02-28T00:45:28.098+05:30The Bidar Fort–The Mandu and Sharza Darwazas<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/02/bidar-fortthe-mandu-and-sharza-darwazas.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>The first look of the fort itself created a lot of curiosity to explore. As I walked through the gateways, I imagined soldiers guarding the gateways and on watch above and on the sides.. As I mentioned in the previous post, there were cannons on each of the 37 bastions ready to fire at any angle. Some of the bastions are most massively built, and they are generally round of octagonal in shape. The parapets are honeyco<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-83Oh4h68sTc/T0vWGQLXvhI/AAAAAAAAX20/eGuHJyr7stg/s1600-h/DSC034773.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03477" border="0" alt="DSC03477" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-7t222SXwmqA/T0vWHvxO2NI/AAAAAAAAX28/gOAMNp60DSI/DSC03477_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>mbed with enclosures providing facilities for firing muskets as well as cannon, both at short and long range.</p> <p>The walls near the main entrance appear to have been breached and rebuilt. The old portions consist of large blocks of stone laid in lime, but the joints are so fine that lime is not visible. The stone is believed to have been bought from the quarries in the Gulbarga district. In front of the first gate of the main approach there was originally a draw bridge over the moat, but the moat was later filled up for the construction of the road.<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-PNWTIZNj5lI/T0vWJavCR6I/AAAAAAAAX3E/eK2uxlGQt6w/s1600-h/DSC034843.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03484" border="0" alt="DSC03484" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-RgefZOyeJbA/T0vWKh-bN6I/AAAAAAAAX3M/Y-Uc_HSbWRc/DSC03484_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a></p> <p>The first gateway, called the Mandu Darwaza is somewhat weak in its appearance. It has an inscription carved on a metal tablet that it is built in 1683 by the Mughal Commandant, Mukhtar Khan Al-Hussaini. The height of this door up to the top of the parapet is 36 feet while the entrance arch is 19 feet high. The two small turrets in front of the parapet are later additions The door is fitted with spikes to secure against elephant attacks As you can see in this picture, the passage through the doorway is vaulted and is divided into two compartments by an arch built in the middle of the passage. Beyond the first Mandu Darwaza, there is a courtroom and an other gatewa<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CmtPknC13og/T0vWMB82fxI/AAAAAAAAX3U/-7IzzjIFfaE/s1600-h/DSC03481%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03481" border="0" alt="DSC03481" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bBCQ9ShdRoY/T0vWNUDB2AI/AAAAAAAAX3c/NqMNeogenX8/DSC03481_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>y. The Mandu Darwaza thus serves the purpose of a barbican for the second. The court has rooms for guards on either side.</p> <p>The second gateway is called the Sharza Darwaza, on account of the effigies of two tigers carved on its façade. Such effigies are often found in the forts of the Deccan and their presence apparently signifies the belief that the representations in this form make the building safe from the attacks of the enemy. The Sharza Darwaza is of larger dimensions than the first gateway, the height of the entrance arch being <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Y-Gk_VWRDrQ/T0vWPBp-8BI/AAAAAAAAX3k/zpJM6-u9-IU/s1600-h/DSC03482%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03482" border="0" alt="DSC03482" align="right" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-XABm3WYO7qk/T0vWQO-mPgI/AAAAAAAAX3s/P62IeNueav0/DSC03482_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>22 feet. The top of the gateway was originally decorated with a beautiful parapet of trefoil design, the face of which is adorned with encaustic tiles of blue and green patterns tastefully relieved with yellow and white bands. The tile work has decayed considerably, but wherever its intact the colors are extremely fresh and charming. </p> <p>Below this parapet is a long panel of black stone covering the entire forehead of the gateway and containing an inscription which records the building of the gateway. in 1503 AD. during the reign of <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MSArqnMfRRc/T0vWRuO2EqI/AAAAAAAAX30/e24Mgk5aK3E/s1600-h/DSC03483%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03483" border="0" alt="DSC03483" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bBqr-Mejesw/T0vWS50V4YI/AAAAAAAAX38/SWBpmKay6X0/DSC03483_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>Mahmud Shah Bahmani, by Saif Khan Kotwalbek. The style of writing is Thulth, but the letters have been so intertwined that the whole looks like a lace design. There were other inscriptions on the side bastions but most of them perished as they were inscribed on tiles. A few pieces which are intact show that they were in white with deep blue background. </p> <p>The Sharza Darwaza has a naqar khana (music gallery) in its upper parts, of which the entrance room is rectangular in plan from which the main apartments of the music gallery can be reached. These are three in number and the side apartments have semi octagonal projections which are pierced by tiny windows and thick iron doors. To keep up the old military traditions of the fort, till 1920 music was still played from this gallery four times a day at the beginning of each watch. I crossed this gateway and moved further.</p> <p>What is saw next is unforgettable…  </p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-66728670038297587442012-02-26T02:33:00.001+05:302012-02-26T02:33:51.518+05:30The Bidar Fort-Unbeatable Fortifications<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/02/bidar-fort-unbeatable-fortifications.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>The <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-C_Fc-98VuF8/T0lMikHee0I/AAAAAAAAXcY/UETooA1gicM/s1600-h/DSC03331%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03331" border="0" alt="DSC03331" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-UfSuYr4pN9E/T0lMjvA7HbI/AAAAAAAAXcg/qqgjdhVygUs/DSC03331_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>Bidar Fort is considered as one of the most formidable forts of India. It was distinctly planned and built on the brink of the Deccan plateau by Sultan Ahmed Shah Wali between 1426 and 1432 AD. Engineers and Architects of various countries were employed on its design and construction.</p> <p>When Prince Ulugh Khan (Mohammed Bin Tughlaq) conquered Bidar for the first time, there was a fort with double lines of defenses. What the form or extent of this was, is difficult to determine as of now. Tradition however says, that it occupied the western area of the present fort. The tradition <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/--faDKVALBp0/T0lMk97YU5I/AAAAAAAAXco/tw5yUdN0WuE/s1600-h/DSC034913.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03491" border="0" alt="DSC03491" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jzNpnd9zN8o/T0lMmJbr9tI/AAAAAAAAXcs/7JWDh429Lj0/DSC03491_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>is further confirmed by the words of Firishtah that Ahmed Shah Wali built the Government House (Dar-ul-Imara) at a site where the old fort of Bidar once stood. The initial fortifications that were built in 1426 were destroyed as a result of the invasion of Sultan Mohammed Khalji during the reign of Sultan Nizam Shah in 1461. However, later during the regime of Muhammad Shah Bahmani, gun powder was used for blowing up the walls by laying <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PxDIElE3-3E/T0lMoI1Y69I/AAAAAAAAXc4/uMrcNEgeQ1w/s1600-h/DSC033213.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03321" border="0" alt="DSC03321" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CLfIyJCX5Ss/T0lMphsDuBI/AAAAAAAAXdA/XNYutSO11cM/DSC03321_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>mines beneath them. </p> <p>Improvements to the fort at a larger scale have been made during the reign of Ali Barid Shah, who mounted guns at various vulnerable points and afterwards, Mukhtar Khan Al-Hussaini, the Mughal commandant re-erected and plated and bossed in iron almost all the gates of Bidar which bear his inscription to this day. There have been no major changes since 1656 when Aurangzeb as the governor of Deccan, annexed Bidar. <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-sXthc9p-RJ0/T0lMrRCub-I/AAAAAAAAXdI/7Fgb7cQjA5M/s1600-h/DSC03396%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03396" border="0" alt="DSC03396" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_9f_cY17hk0/T0lMs7XI8-I/AAAAAAAAXdM/lTY80bN2w1c/DSC03396_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a></p> <p>The fort is an irregular rhomboid in shape with steep sides towards the north and east. On the sides where the ground was lower, a triple channel moat was excavated with partitions hewn out of rock. The moat and the glacis encircle the fort on all sides which sum up to 5.5 kilometers  of defense walls. The external defense has 37 massive polygonal bastions and 7 strong irregular rhombic shaped gates. </p> <p>We will walk through the gates in the next post.</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-49659252535152095282012-02-17T22:47:00.001+05:302012-02-17T22:47:06.560+05:30The Chaukandi of Hadrat Khalil-Ullah–Ashtur, Bidar<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/02/chaukandi-of-hadrat-khalil-ullahashtur.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>Chaukandi is a compound Hindi word, meaning a four storeyed building. Although the building itself is double <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-xJMy0o3dKT4/Tz6LR7dICDI/AAAAAAAAXak/GkTj-AtPAZw/s1600-h/DSC032173.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03217" border="0" alt="DSC03217" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ujgTFpM3rBg/Tz6LTHPZ8QI/AAAAAAAAXas/VjKVEEZTTOg/DSC03217_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>storeyed, the term has been applied as it is situated at a high ground and reached by a flight of steps. Hadrat Khalil-Ullah was the son of Shah Nimat Ullah Kirmani, and as mentioned in of the posts, the former came over from his native place to Bidar in 1431 AD during the reign of Allauddin Shah Wali Bahmani and his sons were married to the royal princesses. </p> <p>The Chaukhandi has three graves in the main vault and several others in the corridor. The tomb is approached from the road which goes from the Dulhan Darwaza to the Bahmani <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-k4q5-iCGSGg/Tz6LUmwi2AI/AAAAAAAAXa0/KHUmXn6bGVI/s1600-h/DSC032203.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03220" border="0" alt="DSC03220" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ozxPyBLfouc/Tz6LVs4fpqI/AAAAAAAAXa8/-FfZopy0zns/DSC03220_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>tombs. To approach the outer gateway of the tomb, the visitor has to ascend a flight of steps and walk across a long pavement which has intermediate steps. There is a pleasing façade at the end of the pavement, comprising of an arch in the middle and a parapet of trefoil pattern at the top of the wall. The arch has a stilt at the top showing Persian influence. There is a panel with medallions of stucco work and contains the names of Allah, Mohammed and Ali written in the Kufic script but arranged in the <em>Tughra</em> style. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-s0euUqgkW3M/Tz6LXQLebNI/AAAAAAAAXbE/cSBRl1yL-IU/s1600-h/DSC032193.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03219" border="0" alt="DSC03219" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-D9lE7nD5gks/Tz6LYhNrXUI/AAAAAAAAXbM/6XR0h8kRuhk/DSC03219_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>Just outside the gateway, there is a hall to the left which is barred for entrance. It has three arches and its ceiling is divided into three compartments built across its width, each compartment containing a vault. The upper hall of this building was originally used by musicians, who played on trumpets and drums at the four watches to maintain the ceremonial dignity of the shrine. Passing through the gateway, the visitor has to ascend some steps to reach the passage. On either side of the passage at this stage are a large <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-uXrB9Npfi_E/Tz6LaM4bBrI/AAAAAAAAXbU/SAG919HlOYM/s1600-h/DSC032223.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03222" border="0" alt="DSC03222" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-lVO7MimrVKo/Tz6LbbgThxI/AAAAAAAAXbc/-LEE-Q-XmR0/DSC03222_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>number of graves belonging to Shah Khalil-Ullah and his successors. From here, there are again a fleet of stairs after which we reach the building.</p> <p>The Chaukandi appears to have been designed by the same architect who planned the tomb of Sultan Allauddin, for there is much in common in the decorative schemes between the two. However, their ground plans are different as the Chaukandi is octagonal unlike the other which is square. <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-zvhKt8M43Pg/Tz6Lc3HDOfI/AAAAAAAAXbk/xjwwYdKZTKM/s1600-h/DSC03226%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03226" border="0" alt="DSC03226" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-aY-EGnacsDw/Tz6LeERyGZI/AAAAAAAAXbs/iP2GahOuY5Q/DSC03226_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The walls of the Chaukandi were originally decorated with encaustic tiles, the trace of which are found only in a few places. Black stone borders have been done for the this tomb as well as we had seen on the tomb of Sultan Allauddin. There are arches on two levels which is again a similarity of <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RbRiyYYISkU/Tz6Lfdv0H-I/AAAAAAAAXb0/tNDtz7kE-lU/s1600-h/DSC03229%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03229" border="0" alt="DSC03229" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-b26HvsIOnV4/Tz6LggK0UwI/AAAAAAAAXb8/8quY0pcPhDs/DSC03229_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="199" height="352" /></a>the two buildings. The walls are built of black trap masonry laid in lime and they are very massive in construction.</p> <p>The interior of the tomb is approached by a covered passage from the arch facing South. The tomb of the saint, which is built in the middle of the interior of the Chaukandi, as a square plan externally and an octagonal plan internally. The walls are decorated with stucco work both inside and outside. In later times, separate vaults have been built for the graves of the descendants of Shah Khalil-Ullah, one of which is attached to the Chaukandi itself and and may be noticed in the form of a projection to the east of the passage. Over the doorway of this vault the date of 1675 AD. is carved which show that it was built after the conquest of Bidar by Aurangzeb in 1658. Inside the vault, there are 9 graves. The beautiful inscription in the Thulth style if writing which beings from the main doorway of the Chaukandi is continued till the inner corridors. It was designed by a calligraphist of Shiraz named Mughith. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Tgk4CilgUC0/Tz6LiL-b3JI/AAAAAAAAXcE/-vmCutNI_4M/s1600-h/DSC03230%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03230" border="0" alt="DSC03230" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4_222BRwV8A/Tz6Lje8hOVI/AAAAAAAAXcM/WxYhjmRPLvc/DSC03230_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>To the east of the Chaukandi, until some 70 years ago, stood a tomb which has since perished completely, but photographs of its exterior and interior were fortunately taken by the Archaeological Department in 1917. It was not of large dimensions but had distinctive decorative features which made the building picturesque. </p> <p>The Chaukandi, apart from its lofty position, which has made it a prominent feature in the panorama of Bidar, possesses certain architectural merits placing the monument among the best constructions of the Bahmani period. It is now denuded of much of its splendor, but its stately arches, neat carving, and magnificent calligraphy and artwork show the highest quality of Bahmani architecture, which probably reached during the reign of Sultan Allauddun, whose own tomb as similar decorative features as the Chaukandi.</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-67873362369213294772012-01-27T15:59:00.001+05:302012-01-27T15:59:13.126+05:30The Bahmani Tombs at Ashtur, Bidar–Part 3<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/01/bahmani-tombs-at-ashtur-bidarpart-3.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>The next in line is the tomb of <strong>Sultan Nizam Shah</strong>, which is to the west of Humayun’s. The thought of a <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-f1KUSrxiZv4/TyJ8J0yDOcI/AAAAAAAAXZA/UgpPphvwU_E/s1600-h/DSC031933.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03193" border="0" alt="DSC03193" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8hnpFuOBM10/TyJ8LVcui1I/AAAAAAAAXZI/TfVh7Y8Q_-8/DSC03193_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>tomb to Nizam Shah was probably his mother’s as the Sultan was just eight when he became the ruler and ruled only for two years. The tomb is left incomplete due to the demise of the queen mother a few years later. Though small, the walls of this tomb rise to a height of 25 feet from ground level. The external dimensions are the same as the other royal tombs. It is very likely that the architect had initially planned a dome as the structure is massive enough to withstand the load. The exterior of the tomb towards the south has a large arch in the middle which forms the entrance. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EtMz0KZAO2s/TyJ8NQVGEAI/AAAAAAAAXZQ/9vUgAC4it9Q/s1600-h/DSC032083.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03208" border="0" alt="DSC03208" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-itRkvvvPvy0/TyJ8O7Ye6hI/AAAAAAAAXZY/mlgcpIV8HsY/DSC03208_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>Next is the tomb of <strong>Sultan Muhammed Shah III</strong>, entitled Lashkari which is also incomplete. The reason could be even if he ruled for nineteen years, he was merely a puppet in the hands of the queen mother and the two ministers, Khwaja Jahan Turk and <a title="Biography of Mahmud Gawan" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/12/brief-biography-of-mohammed-gawan.html">Mahmud Gawan</a>. His tomb is almost similar to that of Nizam Shah except that the dimensions of the arches vary a little. It is possible that it had been designed by the same architect. There are three graves inside and one of them must have belonged to Muhammed Shah’s wife.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-x9RJctV_qwE/TyJ8RJS3U6I/AAAAAAAAXZg/ZbQ4sDL0Zc0/s1600-h/DSC032073.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03207" border="0" alt="DSC03207" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-YVR0siP5QeM/TyJ8StTbvwI/AAAAAAAAXZo/MdHR8ZmV7As/DSC03207_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The title <strong>Malika-E-Jahan</strong> is commonly given to the queen consorts during the Bahmani and subsequent dynasties when they ruled, but here it specifically refers to the wife of Sultan Humayun who played a very important role in Deccan politics during the reign of her minor sons, Nizam Shah and Muhammed Shah III. She retired from State affairs and devoted to religious activities once Muhammed Shah was of age. The Malika’s tomb is a little smaller than that of her husband and two sons. With respect to ornamentation, it has good stucco work which gives a pleasing look. There are four graves below the vault and the one right in the middle of the vault is of the queen. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-MyFo-jmc6mQ/TyJ8UsXCmCI/AAAAAAAAXZw/4RZLpVugvq8/s1600-h/DSC032113.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03211" border="0" alt="DSC03211" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3siOMAokDRg/TyJ8WGkI-SI/AAAAAAAAXZ4/FCKVvze261E/DSC03211_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The tomb of <strong>Mahmud Shah Bahmani</strong> is one of the most imposing structures in the vicinity. He also ascended the throne at a tender age of twelve years. He took control of the kingdom from the de facto rule of Ministers and ruled for thirty six years and probably had his tomb built during his lifetime. His tomb also possesses all the solid dignity of the tombs of the earlier Bahmani kings but lacks in austerity for it does not either have decorative tiles on its outside or paintings inside. The walls rise to a height of 45 feet and strongly support the gigantic dome and are crowned by a parapet of 5 feet. </p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YJ-_MMcdac8/TyJ8X_uDDuI/AAAAAAAAXaA/2C2pNPxlsH8/s1600-h/DSC032123.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03212" border="0" alt="DSC03212" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DPjGryEebxw/TyJ8ZUKL-5I/AAAAAAAAXaI/-ODyuIpN634/DSC03212_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The enclosure walls measure 77 feet on each side and has a wide arch in the center of each wall. There are smaller arches above this arch and this is a common pattern followed all across the building. The dome has an octagonal base on the roof and its circumference at the springing point is 206 feet. The interior of the tomb is somewhat somber with light entering through windows filled with trellis work. Apart from some minor designs here and there, there is no decoration found but the tomb is consistent in its massive and spacious interiors which is a signature of the earlier Bahmani tombs. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cE0rJWdQF0c/TyJ8bL8fT5I/AAAAAAAAXaQ/drQnfTd3ICM/s1600-h/DSC032133.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03213" border="0" alt="DSC03213" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-n437gHDmjVI/TyJ8ci-gBbI/AAAAAAAAXaY/Bs11N4h05bU/DSC03213_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>There are two unidentified tombs in front of this one. They are supposedly of two puppet kings Ahmed Shah and Allauddin who were placed on the throne by Amir Barid in 1518 and 1521AD. Of these two sepulchers, one has a conical dome with eight facets, which are marked by plaster ribs. The interior of the tomb is square measuring only 15 feet. The walls have an arch on each side with a parapet of 2 feet above. The second sepulcher is incomplete. The walls of this building have not been plastered but traces of a tomb were noticed and the building restored by the ASI. </p> <p>Now that we have completed the Bahmani tombs, we will visit the remaining monument in this place, the very famous Chaukandi.</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-82222685719290232282012-01-21T18:35:00.001+05:302012-01-22T11:55:31.695+05:30The Bahmani Tombs at Ashtur, Bidar–Part 2<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2012/01/bahmani-tombs-at-ashtur-bidarpart-2.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>We have seen the glorious and massive tomb of Ahmed Shah Wali in the <a title="The Tomb of Ahmed Shah Wali Bahmani" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/12/bahmani-tombsashtur-part-1.html">previous post</a>. In this post, we will visit the remaining tombs.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ps1EH3peCjQ/Txq3srSRYdI/AAAAAAAAXXA/lkH94sM_RkY/s1600-h/DSC03148%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03148" border="0" alt="DSC03148" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-apf9tb_yt4Q/Txq3tzppVAI/AAAAAAAAXXI/ydQ6oEyxJEQ/DSC03148_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>To the east of Ahmed Shah’s tomb, but at a lower level, is a tomb which is assigned to the wife of the king. There is no inscription on the tomb and its internal decoration has perished with its usage as a dwelling by the locals. Its architecture is similar to that of Ahmed Shah’s but considerably smaller in dimensions. It must at one time, nevertheless, have been quite imposing as its built on a platform and the walls of the tomb rise to around 28 feet above the Sultan’s own tomb. Inside, there are traces of paintings on the ceiling, but owing to neglect over the centuries, the designs have almost perished. There are five graves i<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fYO0h7K8F5M/Txq3ved_d3I/AAAAAAAAXXQ/Wzf1-aeuKGM/s1600-h/DSC03144%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03144" border="0" alt="DSC03144" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-G8h3LMJqUq4/Txq3wle_l3I/AAAAAAAAXXY/BQaLLwEYFNM/DSC03144_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>n this monument, of which the one at the extreme left is said to be that of Ahmed Shah’s wife. </p> <p>There is another tomb to the south of Ahmed Shah Wali’s which is said to be of his son Hassan Khan. However, it is very untrue as Hassan Khan was Ahmed Shah’s nephew and was also a rival. So it is unlikely that he was buried at the royal cemetery. The tomb, in view of the above facts, probably contains the grave of one of the two princes Mahmud Khan or Daud Khan, or perhaps both, for there are eight graves inside and it could have been the family vault of Ahmed Shah. From an architectural point of view, this building is not of much importance as it is comparatively very small than the others we had seen. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-NrvDZWe0z2o/Txq3yNGzzbI/AAAAAAAAXXg/BirXa56uZc8/s1600-h/DSC03196%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03196" border="0" alt="DSC03196" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-henq3kHEDak/Txq3zcvLlVI/AAAAAAAAXXo/w3cKJt4Ds0A/DSC03196_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The next one is the tomb of Allauddin Shah, the eldest son of Ahmed Shah Wali. This tomb probably built during his lifetime should have been magnificent in those days with the colored tiles and floral designs. Much damage has been done to the tiles due to wea<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VuWW3DSC4FY/Txq31IgowkI/AAAAAAAAXXw/ZCXbTsS67uY/s1600-h/DSC03198%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03198" border="0" alt="DSC03198" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vsXZRMkssWU/Txq32SEHtjI/AAAAAAAAXX4/EnOjMCnmrww/DSC03198_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="199" height="352" /></a>ther and vandalism of curious visitors who plucked the tiles till where hands could reach. The specimens which are intact show pleasing floral scrolls, geometric patterns and calligraphic motifs. The principal colors used were blue, green and yellow on white background, of which yellow was used as a contrast. </p> <p>The black stone margins and along the decorative panels is a distinctive characteristic of this tomb. You can find these slender black stone bands at the four corners of the tomb where walls join one another. They are not only finely polished but also carved intricately which is very pleasing. The tomb has three doorways and the ornamentation on its exterior may perhaps at one time have given the same impression of splendor and glory as is produced by the tile decorated walls of the Dome of the <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-N63wrMRmwBE/Txq34EaI-8I/AAAAAAAAXYA/6j8A8lbSzS8/s1600-h/DSC03194%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03194" border="0" alt="DSC03194" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ClB4x-Mpf9U/Txq35BdW8wI/AAAAAAAAXYI/IbYBJfzuo-0/DSC03194_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>Rock at Jerusalem. The name of the King with his title was given in the band of tiles above the southern doorway, but except the word Sultan everything else has perished. </p> <p>The ceiling of the dome was originally painted, and a few fragments of them can be traced here and there. The interior of the tomb seems to have been used roughly by some uncultured people causing damage not only to the paintings, but also to the p<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ZPaUWZ_aegs/Txq36cLToeI/AAAAAAAAXYQ/Uy8R3Iv_bcY/s1600-h/DSC03201%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03201" border="0" alt="DSC03201" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-gAss2vk9v8o/Txq37Xw1u1I/AAAAAAAAXYY/nER7smbPq-Y/DSC03201_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>laster on the walls. They unfortunately destroyed the sarcophagus over the grave and this has been rebuilt by the Archeological Survey of India.</p> <p>Situated next to the one of Allauddin Shah, is the tomb of his son Humayun, the cruel. Probably in retaliation to his cruelty, nature showed its vengeance. The tomb was struck by a lightning in recent times and the larger part of its dome and walls have fallen down. The debris of the dome was lying inside till the 19th <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AMT25_hbc7E/Txq38kcMFgI/AAAAAAAAXYg/0K4utLkiwFE/s1600-h/DSC03205%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03205" border="0" alt="DSC03205" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-U4BIwZImLjw/Txq39r1T50I/AAAAAAAAXYo/tIkZk5flGqw/DSC03205_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>century after which it was cleared by the ASI. The architecture of this building, even though not much pleasing, is different from the ones constructed before, particularly in the arches. This arch construction was later predominantly used in the buildings of Adil Shahi and the Baridi dynasties. </p> <p>The tomb at its base measures 77 feet on each side externally <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-UqPBlYK2mTw/Txq3_MRbv9I/AAAAAAAAXYw/RePvbwyZI_Q/s1600-h/DSC03193%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03193" border="0" alt="DSC03193" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vqRKFi_1jmg/Txq4Acg8ApI/AAAAAAAAXY4/_2keL7dAqq0/DSC03193_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>and the thickness of the walls is 13 feet. Steps are built in the thickness of the walls which lead to the roof. The tomb is entirely built of black trap masonry laid in lime, but the upper courses of the dome are built in light spongy brick which float in water. When ASI sent samples of these bricks for examination, it was found that the quality of these is far superior than those found in the <a title="Ramappa Temple, Warangal" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2010/09/ramappa-temple-man-made-wonder.html">Ramappa Temple</a> in Warangal. The construction of this tomb is indeed a new experience and good information to any student of Bahmani architecture. We shall visit the remaining tombs in the next post.</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-78790915371449799812011-12-31T19:28:00.001+05:302011-12-31T19:28:17.214+05:30The Bahmani Tombs–Ashtur Part 1<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/12/bahmani-tombsashtur-part-1.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>We nee<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wbDy46CJcn0/Tv8Ujwn-i1I/AAAAAAAAXVM/DtoyAI6SOJ0/DSC031433.jpg?imgmax=800"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03143" border="0" alt="DSC03143" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-uEtTQblHLVw/Tv8UodzuedI/AAAAAAAAXVU/O7NVbqqGJKc/DSC03143_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>d to travel outside the city of Bidar for about 2 miles to the village of Ashtur where the tombs of the later Bahmani Sultans are present. We need to pass through the Dulhan Darwaza outside the city. There are eight tombs of the kings of the Bahmani dynasty in this area, and their comparative dimensions and style of architecture demonstrate in the clearest manner the gradual deterioration of the political power of the dynasty.  There is a low wall surrounding the tombs to prevent encroachments from locals which is a good sign. There is a good motor-able road which is increasing tourism activity in this area. Keeping in line with the chronology, the earliest tomb is the one of Sultan Ahmed Shah Wali, who instated Bidar as the capital city. We will talk about each of them.</p> <p><strong>Ahmed Shah Wali Bahmani: </strong>Ahmed Shah Bahmani was a religiously inclined ruler, and accordingly fond <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TRb-xMqo6LM/Tv8Up-TQysI/AAAAAAAAXVc/zlARolA_cQw/s1600-h/DSC031493.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03149" border="0" alt="DSC03149" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-G6QiAeBE9ms/Tv8Uq_T4-8I/AAAAAAAAXVk/w9ap994Ssyw/DSC03149_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>the company of saintly personages. He was devoted to <a title="Khwaja Bande Nawaz Darga" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/11/town-of-gulbarga-first-view.html">Khwaja Bande Nawaz of Gulbarga</a> and later to the order of Shah Nimat-Ullah of Kirman whom he invited the founder to Bidar. It is said, that this saint gave the title “Wali” to Ahmed Shah. The title <em>Wali</em> was used by order of the king in the religious address from the pulpit (<em>khutba</em>). According to his religious inclination, texts are engraved on the inner walls of his tomb. He also respected the doctrine of <em>lingayats</em>, a religious order of the Deccan. The devotion of the latter sect to Ahmed Shah continues to this day, and at the time of the Urs (annual celebrations of the death of a Muslim Saint) their chief priest <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-h5BW9XS2BqE/Tv8Us9q7rxI/AAAAAAAAXVs/bwPqfAFCLFY/DSC031473.jpg?imgmax=800"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03147" border="0" alt="DSC03147" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-qZyyor1hqdg/Tv8Uy5IRjII/AAAAAAAAXV0/Qqky9i8hjOI/DSC03147_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>(Jangam) comes from Gulbarga to Bidar to perform ceremonies according to <em>lingayat</em> rituals. </p> <p>The architecture of the tomb, as indicated by its external features, shows strength combined with majesty, although except for the stucco work done in the arches, there is no decoration on the walls of the building. The walls are most massively built, their thickness being 12 feet. The dome of the building is three-fourths of an orb in shape with an octagonal base at the roof level, measuring 214 feet in girth, each side of the octagon being 26 feet. At its springing point, it has a circumference of 196 feet and its height including its finial is 107 feet measured from ground level. </p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-aBnIhvJ3NB0/Tv8Uz0CqrJI/AAAAAAAAXV8/kcg1wssBVps/s1600-h/DSC031733.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03173" border="0" alt="DSC03173" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-d1pFkl4vF90/Tv8U0ssVQeI/AAAAAAAAXWE/UolW6cSoti0/DSC03173_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The inner plan of the tomb comprises of a square hall 52 feet on each side. There is a lofty arch in the middle of each of the four sides of the hall. The plan, accounting to these features looks pleasing to the eye, but the architect has further ornamented it by building squinches at the four corners of the hall, thus the building becoming octagonal at the top of the squinches. Above this, the plan is further changed making it 24 sided owing to the design below the circular base of the dome. The interior, although dark is artistically relieved by splashes of the most brilliant color <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5-fVGEpBGfc/Tv8U2RPuLMI/AAAAAAAAXWM/5OvrpffnQ7c/s1600-h/DSC03159%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03159" border="0" alt="DSC03159" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ErnuXZcYHyw/Tv8U3rUnRQI/AAAAAAAAXWU/3J-ojBHkO9E/DSC03159_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>combinations used to design the insides. For instance, in order to show with effect the brilliance of the gold creeper, a extremely dark background was used as you see in the above picture.. The practice of giving a while outline to the drawing which a view of<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tNjYqz-PSFA/Tv8U5f92VaI/AAAAAAAAXWc/7IvZwaBs91I/s1600-h/DSC03162%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03162" border="0" alt="DSC03162" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-c6vnwk8jeNw/Tv8U6dvsT6I/AAAAAAAAXWk/BuXmLKLbI7w/DSC03162_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="199" height="352" /></a> suggesting an idea of depth to the subject could have been inspired by the ones in Ajanta painted during the 5th and 6th Centuries. There are textual forms of sayings by famous saints inscribed on many tablets inside this tomb. There are some more inscriptions on the life and times of Ahmed Shah Wali. Another important feature of this painting is that one of them contains the name of the painter with a reference to his native place. The most elegant of all the paintings is the octagonal shapes of gold on the walls and inner side the dome. </p> <p>The various features of this tomb, such as its vast dimensions, solid <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-CXrxrGbV9kg/Tv8U7bhrHQI/AAAAAAAAXWs/pApYYBC6UCQ/s1600-h/DSC03160%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03160" border="0" alt="DSC03160" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-sH0Pz-_1AvU/Tv8U89ViM2I/AAAAAAAAXW0/sgYmK-02Lmg/DSC03160_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>architecture, choice color schemes, and subtle decorative patterns, show the lofty ideals of the builder on the one hand and his exquisite taste and religious spirit on the other. This last mentioned quality is amply demonstrated by the holy texts inscribed on the building, as also by the ritual which is still observed by the votaries of the tomb, who although professing different faiths and belonging to different nationalities, all join together in paying their homage to the memory of the saintly king.</p> <p>We will talk about the other tombs of the vicinity in the next post.</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-47698432410045854072011-12-24T01:53:00.001+05:302011-12-24T01:53:56.567+05:30The Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan, Bidar– Part 2<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/12/madrasa-of-mahmud-gawan-bidar-part-2.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>Before you continue reading, read the <a title="The Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan - Part 1" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/12/madrasa-of-mahmud-gawan-bidarpart-1.html">previous post</a>.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-du070nvbid4/TvTi01jaDbI/AAAAAAAAXTs/_UUuowZqtDk/s1600-h/DSC031074.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03107" border="0" alt="DSC03107" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-itd10axuU3I/TvTi23nwNJI/AAAAAAAAXT0/DrP-c_-Jvxo/DSC03107_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="199" height="352" /></a>The interior of has plain but lofty style of architecture appropriate to a place of worship. The hall is 49 feet in length and 24 feet in width. Corresponding to the mosque and adjoining the minaret, was the library, which has completely perished. But as architects of the East generally design the wings of the building in a uniform plan, it is not unlikely that the plan of the library is a replica of that of the mosque. </p> <p>By entering the building through the opening where the main gateway once stood, and following the either of the two passages to the right and left of the porch, the inner court is reached, which measures 103 feet and has a dodecagonal cistern in the middle. It was a large one where its water was apparently supplied by a subterranean channel from the well in the forecourt of the building. The marginal slabs of this cistern are now missing, and its current depth is only 3 feet.</p> <p>As the  northern and western wings of the bu<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-J16cx8aufEs/TvTi6EkAcRI/AAAAAAAAXT8/qZqlImRhvXg/s1600-h/DSC031143.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03114" border="0" alt="DSC03114" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-W5neXoEiMno/TvTi704V8DI/AAAAAAAAXUE/csqTqMH-m58/DSC03114_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>ilding are in a better state of preservation than those of the other sides, it would be best to begin the description of the different apartments of the Madrasa from its northern wing. At the extreme eastern end of this wing, adjoining the mosque described above, is a square hall with a dome shaped ceiling which measures 27 feet on each side at the base, but its corners are slightly cut The walls are plan but there are series of receding arches combined with the elegant design in the northern projection of the hall, take away any monotony from the building. The hall was apparently meant for the residence of the principal teacher of the Madrasa who would have acted also as the <em>Imam</em>. Corresponding to this hall there was another in the southern wing of the building which has completely disappeared, but its plan has been determined by the excavations carried out the Archaeological Department. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YkfmQbTE0eE/TvTjAMLWq0I/AAAAAAAAXUM/H05ZYdSoxYw/s1600-h/DSC03099%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03099" border="0" alt="DSC03099" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4HW8Zi6ITLo/TvTjBxGjiuI/AAAAAAAAXUU/Z-XesTnGQbI/DSC03099_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>It is said that the southern wing got demolished by a lightning, however, the actual reason was different. After the capture of Bidar by Aurangzeb in the latter end of the 17th Century, these splendid range of buildings were used as a storage of powder magazine and barracks for a body of cavalry, when by accident the powder exploded destroying the greater part of the edifice causing dreadful havoc around. All we can see in this wing is a large gaping hole on one side the building with the arch and a pillar as silent witnesses of the destruction.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-3w086uaOy2U/TvTjGwQpN3I/AAAAAAAAXUc/cMvIsiPkueY/s1600-h/DSC03105%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03105" border="0" alt="DSC03105" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fhRqfY-qGWU/TvTjIu0yxbI/AAAAAAAAXUk/jeZ5S_U-qdc/DSC03105_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>Beyond the latter two halls, the plan on the northern and southern wings of the Madrasa is uniform, comprising a large hall in the middle with pairs of student rooms built on either side of it. These rooms rise to three storeys and there is a verandah in front of each with an arched opening towards the court. Each student accommodation consists of two rooms where the inside one was a sleeping quarter. The back room<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bOPI-l0zsVw/TvTjMfsw9cI/AAAAAAAAXUs/wp3MqwQUx2M/s1600-h/DSC03100%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03100" border="0" alt="DSC03100" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Sslmjzd6Mis/TvTjOYk1o4I/AAAAAAAAXU0/NhWinEsHRn0/DSC03100_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>s of this apartments are fitted with windows opening on grounds surrounding the buildings. The windows were originally fitted with <em>jalis</em>. of elegant designs which were restored in recent times. The arrangement of the apartments shows that the architect has taken into consideration the comfort of the students in all seasons of India. There are thirty six suits of these rooms in all the three storeys of the building and according to the estimate, if we consider each suite to accommodate three students, the Madrasa was capable of accommodating 108. The halls in the middle were meant to be lecture halls where you can see calligraphic texts <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DVV_k0u_5JY/TvTjTBDKoJI/AAAAAAAAXU8/D2BKHX6ANBY/s1600-h/DSC03115%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03115" border="0" alt="DSC03115" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-P2Ky2iOOkf4/TvTjVI7Wm8I/AAAAAAAAXVE/mOBVaL6Z-OI/DSC03115_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>here and there. At the north-west and south-west corners, the architect had planned rooms for professors, which are not only comfortable for living but also have pleasing designs. </p> <p>The architect has planned a platform all round to make the structure more secure. The walls of the Madrasa measure exactly 242 feet from east to west and 220 feet from north to south. They are built of rough-tooled masonry, which has been covered with plaster and emblazoned with tiles.</p> <p>The more we talk about this amazing construction, the less it is. I spent in the premises for more than half an hour and moved on to visit the Bahmani Tombs in Ashtur. </p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-50225719825110356172011-12-20T22:58:00.001+05:302011-12-20T22:58:35.699+05:30The Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan, Bidar–Part 1<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/12/madrasa-of-mahmud-gawan-bidarpart-1.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>Proceeding a little further from the <a title="The Chaubara" href="http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/12/bidarthe-chaubara.html">Chaubara</a>,  a visitor will notice on the left side of the road a timeworn but magnificent structure. As i mentioned in the previous post, Mahmud Gawan was not only a great wa<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-66EVozMFDmE/TvDFN_e3cTI/AAAAAAAAXSM/Z57quTevgfU/s1600-h/DSC031293.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03129" border="0" alt="DSC03129" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-IGqjzUGDGF4/TvDFPkjqlBI/AAAAAAAAXSU/OhnJwM0efKI/DSC03129_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>rrior but also a great administrator. His contribution to Deccan History was the great Madrasa he established in 1472 AD. It is not only the most imposing building of the Bahmani period, but in its plan and in the general style of its architecture, it is one of its kind in India. Mahmud Gawan, being from Persia and as he was continually was in correspondence with eminent personages of his home country, it is not unlikely that he bought engineers and craftsmen from that country to design this building. He, under the aegis of the Bahmani Kings, who were enthusiastic patrons of learning and literature, was thus able to have this <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-WJNkBFwNzr0/TvDFUjNT2YI/AAAAAAAAXSc/J8np8gel2T4/s1600-h/DSC030983.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03098" border="0" alt="DSC03098" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-bL-hJG8ObAc/TvDFWY1DM6I/AAAAAAAAXSk/beVrNVkD1KU/DSC03098_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>college at Bidar on the same magnificent lines as its prototypes in Khurassan and other Islamic countries, and he not only staffed it with eminent divines, philosophers and scientists, but also equipped it with a library of 3000 valuable manuscripts. </p> <p>The first view of this unique monument is itself enough to understand the importance it had during that time. The ASI took over this monument in 1914 and has put in a great deal of effort in conserving it. Lets get inside the complex and talk about each part of it.</p> <p>The b<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bpcPozl1P3Y/TvDFaphL7iI/AAAAAAAAXSs/VRqWinZ2Tjg/s1600-h/DSC031133.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03113" border="0" alt="DSC03113" align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ldYmeeafA8w/TvDFcTOWaPI/AAAAAAAAXS0/irH7YMsF75A/DSC03113_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>uilding has a high basement, but to make the approach convenient, two terraces have been built in front it. The main entrance has vanished, but its floor has been exposed by excavations carried in recent times and the plan shows that the whole comprised of an outer arch 21 feet in span and an inner 10 feet in span. The height of the arch was around 45 feet from the floor level. Beyond the entrance was a portico, square at the base. The roof of the portico probably had a dome structure similar to those above the roofs of the semi octagonal projections that <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7Z8YAB4xuXY/TvDFfm967uI/AAAAAAAAXS8/DiSLsR_EvNo/s1600-h/DSC031284.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03128" border="0" alt="DSC03128" align="right" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-n_0bToFf-B4/TvDFhxpmWaI/AAAAAAAAXTE/1BioIf04PPA/DSC03128_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="199" height="352" /></a>you see one three sides. The other three projections rise to a height of 90 feet There were passages from the portico to the inner building, but today only the pavements and remains of walls are seen. </p> <p>The minaret at the northern end of the façade and the wall adjoining it towards the south are comparatively the best preserved portions of the Madrasa, although their tile decorations have survived only in fragments. The minaret has an octagonal base, 67 feet from ground level and has three storeys where the first and second have balconies, which project from the main body of the tower, but has no brackets to support them. The absence of brackets signify a typical Persian construction. The lower part of the tower was decorated with tiles arranged in a chevron pattern, the colors being green, yellow and white. Owing to rain water, most of the tiles have fallen down but the remaining ones convey a clear idea of the decorative schema of the tower. For the purpose of variety, each storey at the neck point had calligraphic devices on mosaic tiles with white letters fixed over a deep blue background. The total height of the tower is 131 feet from ground level. The top of the tower looks somewhat dumpy and does not possess any grace. </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Fo5Rl30jU-0/TvDFlyIEOzI/AAAAAAAAXTM/nzZI0k0n-RQ/s1600-h/DSC030933.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03093" border="0" alt="DSC03093" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oZt-tdewqWE/TvDFnoXD-1I/AAAAAAAAXTU/fPekaL_BKJo/DSC03093_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>The wall adjoining the tower towards the South forms the façade of a mosque built in the north-eastern part of the building. This wall extends at present to a length of 59 feet and has an elevation of 65 feet from floor to the upper terrace. The architect in order to produce an effect of light and shade in the building has divided the façade into several compartments, two of which have deeply recessed arches with screens of trellis-work at their back. Details of <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_U-YJ_o9KIw/TvDFtQqHYRI/AAAAAAAAXTc/DjkKkTZSEfI/s1600-h/DSC030963.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSC03096" border="0" alt="DSC03096" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-2iqLP_Z_rPc/TvDFvLw222I/AAAAAAAAXTk/HNylxvM0_AU/DSC03096_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="352" height="199" /></a>the façade include a band of tile-work containing a parapet design with white, yellow and blue tiles arranged in artistic manner. Below this band, comes another broader one containing an extract from the Quran. Below the calligraphic band, which is of a rather intricate pattern, there is another comprising little squares arranged in the form of stars. Below the three bands of tile-work, there is a broad compartment, containing five arches, the side walls of which are again decorated with beautiful tiles. </p> <p>The second or middle compartment also contains arches which are also decorated with tiles. The third compartment, which adjoins the plinth of the building, comprises five rectangular panels where the middle one has a doorway and a window on top of it. The other panels also have windows with <em>jalis</em> of delicate patterns. </p> <p>We will see more of this amazing monument in the coming post..</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1482804700362138164.post-47667324026926876372011-12-18T13:04:00.001+05:302011-12-18T13:58:58.559+05:30A Brief Biography of Mohammed Gawan<div class="wlWriterHeaderFooter" style="float:none; margin:0px; padding:4px 0px 4px 0px;"><iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/widgets/like.php?href=http://harithemusafir.blogspot.com/2011/12/brief-biography-of-mohammed-gawan.html" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="border:none; width:450px; height:80px"></iframe></div><p>Even after an year that I travelled to Bidar, I still wonder about one thing. How come a literal ruin is one of its most famous monuments. The answer lies in two aspects. If one is the personality of Mohammed Gawan, the other is the beauty and prominence of this Madrasa. </p> <p>Today, the opinion on Madras has degraded because of some anti social elements. However, in olden days Madrasa was a temple of learning where a variety of subjects were taught. Many people do not know that our former President, Dr. Abdul Kalam is a product of a Madrasa.</p> <p>Khaja Mohammed Gawan came under public eye when he was sent by Sultan Allauddin II to suppress a neighbor king. He later became prominent among the nobles and ultimately was chosen as the Chief Minister by Humayun, which is termed as the best thing that happened to the kingdom in his rule. He became the Principal Minister of State in 1462 and administration went smoothly after that. One of his most trusted followers was Yusuf Adil Khan, who later found the Adil Shahi Dynasty of Bijapur. Now lets talk about Khaja Gawan’s character.</p> <p>Khaja Mohammed Gawan, was an excellent fighter as he was a learned person. He was sent to many battles which resulted in utmost victories to the Bahmani kingdom. There is an incident that is mentioned of life where after being honored by the Sultan, he went back to his house and decided to dispose all of his wealth and used all of his valuables to purchase books for his students. The reason he gave was he got a sudden pride in his victories which was not good for a humble person like him. From then on, he used to disguise himself and donate all his money to poor. </p> <p>With his rising prominence, other nobles were jealous. They created a situation where the Sultan had to believe that Mohammed Gawan was helping the enemy to usurp the kingdom. The Sultan in a fit of rage and under the influence of alcohol, had Mohammed Gawan’s head cut off. His simple tomb lies at one end of Bidar, on which, inscribed are the words “The story of unjust execution” and “The guiltless Mahmud Gawan suffered execution”.</p> <p>The Madrasa that we are going to talk in the next post is the most fruitful aspect of Mohammed Gawan’s dedication towards his country and people. </p> <p><strong>References:</strong></p> <p>1. History of the Deccan by J.D.B. Gribble</p> <p>2. Bidar - Its History and Monuments by Ghulam Yazdani</p> Hari Narayanahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18314071042611578226noreply@blogger.com0